Still not starting

[RussLCV]

Further to another topic about failure to start

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... 9&start=15


I thought best to start a fresh....................engine rebuild and still not starting

Spark (good one at plugs)
Plugs wet
Seems to be firing but popping down exhaust

Engine is Midget 1275 block with Metro head and HIF44 Carb, it is turning over but just popping Exhaust is getting warm. I have set timing static, but since I have moved dizzy trying to trying to get to start. after cranking it over I was moving Dizzy and it popped down exhaust noise was like pressure when I moved the dizzy ( the key was off)

Any Ideals before I remove the front radiator and front panel to get at the front engine cover to check Crank & Cam are timed correctly? I am running out of ideas. Also how does one remove that crank nut without being able to jam the crank. Done off the car loads of time have the correct socket

Looking for to some help

Thanks

Is there anything else I am over looking

[bmcecosse]

I assume the valve gaps are set correctly?? Advance the timing till it kicks against the starter. Don't get in to the cam timing just yet - there's an easy way to check without major dismantling.... If you DO want the big bolt off - ring spanner/socket with T bar/stillson wrench fitted over and resting on the nearside chassis leg - drop an old blanket over in case it jumps - remove the spark plugs and crank the engine on the starter.....

[kennatt]

take the plugs out and the rocker cover offturn the engine over until you see the valves on no 4 Rocking ie inlet and ex moving together when you turn the engine back a forth.put a probe into the plug hole of no 1 and rock the engine over until you feel that the piston is at the top. This is top dead centre on one. Now check that the rotor arm is pointing at the terminal in the dizzy coresponding to no One plug lead.,turn the dizzy until it is,then this is the basic timing set,check the timing marks on the crank pully,it may be out but if the piston is at the top of one and the rotor is pointing at it with a spark at the plug it shouild fire up.It can be timed using other cylinders as a start but try to set it up this way first,then report back .

[RussLCV]

Thanks guys for the time and trouble in helping my problems.

Kennat that's exactly what I did today and no luck

bmcescosse, valves were set when I rebuilt the engine, If there is an easier way of checking in cases cam & crank are out that was all I needed to before I remove the crank nut would be good

H

[bmcecosse]

Ok - here goes....... You set the valves rocking on #1 or #4 as ^^^^^^ earlier. But be careful to do this by ONLY turning the engine in the normal direction - DO NOT turn it back at any point. Then go to the other cylinder where the piston is UP, so #4 or #1 respectively. Both valves will (should !) be slightly down. They should be down EXACTLY the same amount if the pistons are exactly at TDC (so set that as carefully as you can with that 'probe')- and the cam has been set correctly. To check - don't move the engine from TDC - slacken back the adjustments on both these valves and set the gaps to 10 thou. Then turn the engine over 1 full rev. Now measure the gaps - they should be the SAME as each other (but probably something like 40 thou) within a couple of thou. Report back what you find !

[mike.perry]

Check the bleeding obvious:-
Have you got the plug leads in the correct order - 1342 ANTI clockwise?
Have you got a spark at all the plugs?
Have you got a good spark at the points? A faulty condensor will still give a weak spark.
Is the carbon brush in the top of the distributor cap in good condition?
Is the fuel delivery OK?

[kennatt]

well if you have done as i said and bms just descrided the same proceedure then you need to look elsewhere,What you could do just to check further is to turn the engine over in the right direction and watch any set of valves watch the inlet valve and see it open fully then close fully that piston is now on compression stroke and the rotor should be approaching the coresponding plug lead terminal,if so then the timing is about correct,I assume you have been through the other basic tests of coil lead to block plugs check etc,Try a blast(Only a small one ) of easy start into carb see if that jolts it into action,petrol down the carb ,getting a tow start.

[RussLCV]

Hi Mike

Basic are all in place


I need to do as bmcecosse suggests so will do and report back

[RussLCV]

seems I had the timmg 180 degrees out, I mistaken the valves rocking on no4 as being closed so set dizzy out?

So I have had set it all today re installed the dizzy drive and the dizzy and set uo no 1 as firing. pointer is on TDC too, and vales at no4 are just rocking ie both down is that correct.......................

I have not yet attempted to start and have not moved anything am I now right?

[bmcecosse]

180 out doesn't matter a hoot - all you had to do was move the plug leads round two spaces.......Can't remember now if I suggested that earlier? Valves rocking on # 4 means #1 should be firing.

[RussLCV]

Roy

Just been out in the garage and within 2 mins put rocker box on and plug leads and she sprang into life, ran sweet at a nut considering the exhaust, oil light & ignition went straight out too. First pull

Thanks for all the assistance guys

[mike.perry]

Like I said - Check the bleeding obvious!

[RussLCV]

I was chuffed Mike and I think as you said the lesson learnt is check the basics and then check up again

H

[simmitc]

And as I wrote on the 7th Jan on the other thread:

You say that spark is good - is that good on all four AFTER the distributor? If just testing the lead from the coil, then it could be a rotor arm or cap causing a problem.
Ignition timing is simple to check. For starters, get number 1 to compression, then line up the timing marks. Is the rotor arm now pointing to number 1 lead? It is easy to have the firing order correct, but to be sending the spark to the wrong cylinder!

I think that we were all on the same wave length. Still, at least it's running now.

[RussLCV]

It would appear the dizzy drive shaft was wrong too, so I removed that one as well and set it all up and it was away

THANKS again all

Will keep you all posted

[bmcecosse]

Glad to hear it's running at last! But dizzy drive shaft etc doesn't matter at all - you can always just swap the leads around no matter where the dizzy ends up sitting due to the drive shaft position. Obviously - in some positions, it can foul the oil pressure switch - but otherwise - it really doesn't matter!