Rear Brakes - Two Questions

[David53]

Having the whole rear end apart I decided to take the opportunity to renew the brakes as well as new shoes and cylinders are so affordable. What a pain of a job! The springs were so strong that parting the shoes enough to slide in the adjuster was almost impossible. Finally got it all together though. Two questions:

Beehive Springs - are they really required? Tried numerous times to refit with a pair of long nosed pliers but eventually gave up as the pliers kept slipping on the spring. I could invest in a better pair of pliers (the ones I have are quite small and prob don't have enough grip) but are the springs really neccessary?

Secondly, re bleeding. I know Roy has a method he favours of letting gravity do the work - does the wheel cylinder need to be lower than the master cylinder for this to work, and do I just give the pedal a few pumps to get it started?

[mike.perry]

Fit shoes, springs and adjuster onto cylinder, then lever the fixed end of the shoe into position with the flat of a screwdriver. Keep fingers clear.
A push and twist with a long nose pliers usually works as long as the shoes are centralised but beehive springs are not essential.
I prefer to use two people to bleed the brakes but if one person, then the wheel cylinder should be the lowest point

[David53]

Thanks Mike - yes I would have used the leverage method had the backplates been on the car but for some dumb reason I decided to assemble them on the bench! Never again!!

[bmcecosse]

The tube from the cylinder goes down into a jar on the floor with a little fluid in it - so the syphon runs down to floor level (minus the depth of fluid in the jar of course) - it works in Ecosseland- dunno about where you are.......

[David53]

Thanks Roy will give it a try. You never know - it might run upwards!

[David53]

Job all complete, rebuilt diff lovely and quiet - no more clunk clunk clunk! Brakes work well and handbrake now holds her on a hill. Being a Morrie though she did have one surprise for me. The front RH wheel bearing chose this moment to fail, resulting in a horrible growling noise. Of course I assumed it was the rebuilt diff but after much scratching of head and the feeling it was coming from the front of the car I checked and found the inner bearing shot. I didn't believe it possible as I had renewed it only 6 months ago. The quality of modern replacement parts leaves much to be desired.

[mike.perry]

I am using pre greased sealed bearings on the front hubs, no more grease over everything when I take the brake drums off

[David53]

Where do you get these from Mike? Does the grease not wear out over time?

[mike.perry]

From my local bearing suppliers. The bearings are sealed which stops grit getting in and they reckon that they will last longer. I have had one side in for about three years with no problems.

[bmcecosse]

Usually it's the same bearing number with '2RS' added after the number 2RS = 2 Rubber Seals
You don't tell us - did the gravity bleeding do the job ????

[katy]

FWIW, Sealed bearings in machinery are typically called for to be replaced every 25,000 hours.

Happy New Year to all, Ken

[mike.perry]

25,000hrs at 30mph = 750,000 miles. That's long enough for me

[David53]

Yes it did Roy but it took quite a long time. I finished off with a few "push and hold" releases just to make sure.

[bmcecosse]

That's when I have my coffee break...... Glad it worked anyway!