Front r/spring hangers--location

[Chris Edgar]

I will be having new front hangers for the rear springs fitted next week..(ordered "hangers on a plate")

Can anyone help with any measurements from fixed reference points to ensure that they are correctly located, please?

Chris

Incidentally, I noticed corrosion around the front edges recently & thought, better get this done before winter...when I examined them again, one week later, the damage had spread to such an extent close around the hangars that the car is now off the road!
In only one week!

[Chris Edgar]

Has no-one got any advice on this please?

[chickenjohn]

If your car already drives OK and does not have unusual tyre wear, then if the suspension points have not been changed it is a fair bet the current rusty points are in the right place. Therefore, I would suggest dropping the axle and taking lots of measurements between all the suspension points, marking them out on a diagram and replacing your suspenion mounting panels one at a time, keeping all the measurements correct.

[taupe]

Hi

The dimensions are given in the manual pages R 16 and R 17

Ive done this recently on my traveller restoration thread see page 12

For my car I set the spring mount centres (front to rear mounts) to exactly 43 3/32” apart horizontally and at the correct relative heights.

The overall width across the front spring hanger brackets was 42 1/8” and approx 38” between the inner faces. This was the same dimension as the old brackets were welded to and according to my calculations works out at 40 1/8” for the centres of the springs. This seems to agree with my measurement of the rear axle pad centres as well. You can of course use the dimensions over the mounting pins as shown in the manual for this side to side dimension.

The centre of the front bracket pin should be approx 25" from the rear face of the centre crossmember.

Hope this helps

Taupe

[mogbob]

Being a belt and braces man, I took all the measurements but also made a "jig ".Very complicated but effective.A long piece
of wooden batten.Drill holes in the batten, to accomodate the pins/bolts back and front.Suspension still in situ.

Replace either patch, one at a time using the jig.Jack up the patch into postion, using a scissor or bottle jack and lumps of wood.Once solid in position, check your measurements are correct and weld.Adjust if not.Having fixed one end, now use this
as your new starting point, to set up the other patch repair plate, same proceedure.

Other points, get the car as high as you can for welding but well supported on axle stands.With backaxle, propshaft,exhaust
out of the way, you have plenty of room to manoevre.Can be done without but if you have lots of other bits to weld under there ,it might make easier in the long run.

I did it with a scaffold pole across the underside of the car on axle stands and the back ( bumper supports ) lashed to a substantial wooden pallet.Nice and high and rock solid with plenty of room to scrabble around.
Please read this in conjunction with taupe's and chickenjohn's valuable advice.
Bob

[Chris Edgar]

Many thanks for all the help & advice, Bob, John & Taupe.

All noted.
Parts due to arrive this PM
Job due to start at 8.30 am tomorrow.

I will post results


regards

Chris

[Chris Edgar]

Job done, no problems.

Bob, I used your jig idea & it was very good.
As I had suspected, the nearside hanger ( not original) was slightly too far back, resulting in the back of the spring hitting the chassis rail on a big bump.
The jig showed this up straight away, before I took the corroded one off.

So, now they new ones are in the proper place.

Thanks to all

Chris

[mogbob]

Chris I can't take all the credit, it was the sum total of the advice.Your car should be heading in the direction you point it from now on.
You certainly didn't hang around, pleased you are satisfied with the outcome.
Well done.
Bob