Starting my moggy

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gatsby989
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Starting my moggy

Post by gatsby989 »

When I first start my mog, I pull the choke all the way out, turn the key and let the fuel pump click a few seconds, pull the starter, giver her a little gas, and she fires right up. However, if I don't keep giving her fuel, the engine will die. It takes several minutes until I can take my foot completely off and the engine will idle rather than die. I've tried fiddling with the choke, but doesn't seem to make much difference. Just wondering if this is normal, or if it should idle on its own right after starting from cold?

It's a 1957 948 with a weber carb if that helps.
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by Matt Tomkins »

i wouldn't start it on full choke all the time - especially in this warm weather!
i find about half way is more than enough
try cleaning the carb?


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ASL642
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by ASL642 »

These cars were designed to start using the choke. Leave the choke out until the engine is warmed up - yes even on warm days. Let the engine warm up before starting to drive, but, If you have to drive immediately let the choke stay half open for about the first 1/2 mile to 1 mile. Once the engine is warmed up push it fully in. On cold days even though you have already driven the car some distance, if you have stopped for any length of time you will need the choke again.

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Matt Tomkins
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by Matt Tomkins »

ASL642 wrote:These cars were designed to start using the choke. Leave the choke out until the engine is warmed up - yes even on warm days. Let the engine warm up before starting to drive, but, If you have to drive immediately let the choke stay half open for about the first 1/2 mile to 1 mile. Once the engine is warmed up push it fully in. On cold days even though you have already driven the car some distance, if you have stopped for any length of time you will need the choke again.
i agree that they were designed to start using the choke, but if i pull mine right out, it splutters because it's too rich.
i simply wondered if that was the problem. (or could it be that my adjustment's out?)

agreed, don't put it in immediately -- just learn to listen to the engine and get it in asap without stalling the engine


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Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487

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simmitc
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by simmitc »

I'd say that the problem was the non-standard carb. When U was young and foolish, I splashed out on a Weber for my 948. It ran rough no matter what I did tuning wise. I eventually put the standard SU back, and was rewarded with a car that started and ran perfectly. Each to their own, but an SU takes a lot of beating; a standard car will usually be very well behaved.
PSL184
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by PSL184 »

Check you have the fast idle set correctly. The engine revs should also rise when the choke is pulled out.
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polo2k
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by polo2k »

If your choke know still clicks as you pul it out, I was always told that when pushed fully in the choks should not be "working" any if the carb components. 1st and 2nd clicks should bring the idle up but not affect the mixture, then the rest of the clicks should do mixture and fast idle.
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bmcecosse
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by bmcecosse »

What type of 'weber' is it? And as above - you will do much better to get a decent SU on there.
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gatsby989
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by gatsby989 »

Thanks all for the feedback so far. It is a weber 28/30 DGV, which is a two barrel progressive I believe. It was on the car when I bought it, and I don't have the old SU carb.
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bmcecosse
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by bmcecosse »

If it's an otherwise standard 948 - you would do better to source an SU - and then flog the daft weber to an unsuspecting Mini owner....... The weber is obviously not set up correctly for your car - and to do so will cost a fortune. What colour are the plugs - and what MPG do you get?
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simmitc
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by simmitc »

I know that it's not much help, but there were plenty of good second hand SUs available at the National Rally. Try ringing a few of the traders who have second hand parts, it shouldn't cost too much to send an SU to the States. You could, of course, splash out on a reconditioned one.
gatsby989
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by gatsby989 »

Thanks all for the input. Haven't had a chance to pull the plugs, but last time I looked at them, they were black and needed cleaning. The weber is running rich, and needs different jets. I just haven't got around to it yet. I suspected that might be the issue with it not idling, but wanted to see if maybe I was overlooking something, or if that tends to happen even with the standard SU carb.

The choke does not click when I pull it out. Nor does it seem to increase the idle rpms. Hmm I'm going to tinker with the weber some more, and see if I can't get it closer to right.
1959 Morris Minor 1000 - As of yet unnamed besides "little white car."
moggles
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Re: Starting my moggy

Post by moggles »

Sadly, SUs like tinkering, Webers do not. They are notoriously hard to set up properly. I have Webers on my racing engine, but it takes a dynamometer (aka rolling road), several hours, and a drawer full of alternative jets to properly set them up to deliver of their best. Below their best , they are cranky, illogical and frustrating. Since an SU is more forgiving, tuneable without special skills or tools, more economical, and can be picked up for a fiver or three with manifold, I'd be leaning that way....
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