Which repair panel

[Alex'n'Ane]

There is some major corrosion (a massive hole! or 2..) underneath the drivers side of my minor (around the sill area) I have posted a picture of the damage from a few angles. Obviously a new repair panel will be required and i have a suitable welder to do the work. I just wanted to check which repair panel i would need for this?[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[Dean]

try this link


http://www.morris-minor.co.uk/p88.htm

[mogbob]

Alex'n'Ane
Using Dean's link, Chassis Panels,underside....RP134R should ( ? ) be sufficient.It's very difficult to be sure until the old
bit is cut out and you can see how good ...or otherwise ...the adjoining metal is.The welder will need good sound, clean metal to weld to.Most major suppliers would have the panel, shop around.
However the adjoining metal comprises " straight " metal so he/ she may be able to patch in plain rectangular patches
to give them suficient decent surrounding metal if needed.It should'nt trouble a decent welder/ fabricator but until it is opened up ,the true position is an unknown.
If the welder is a "mate " O.K. but if not ,then doing some of the preparation, e.g removing the underseal ,the carpets and driver's seat ( once delivered ) etc would save on the " cost ".Ask cost for him/ her doing all the work and then offer to do some of the preparation, if you want to be bothered/ have the tools /time,etc.Check the welder will spray/ underseal after the work is done.

Bob

[Alex'n'Ane]

I have removed the underseal from all around and it all seems solid either side, and 'inside' the hole is also perfect solid metal. The welder is a friend or father so cost isn't an issue. And i will be doing the rest of the prep work and painting/ undersealing afterwards too. Can i ask why the seat needs to be removed?

[mogbob]

Alex'n'Ane

No need to remove seat then ! You're lucky...it's usually a case of seeing how big the corresponding hole
in the floor pan is !!.A comprehensive restoration plan could then be formulated.

Some body up there is looking after you if the rust is very contained and hasn't spread elsewhere.Time
to buy a Lottery ticket you lucky man.

Bob

[Alex'n'Ane]

Alex'n'Ane

No need to remove seat then ! You're lucky...it's usually a case of seeing how big the corresponding hole
in the floor pan is !!.A comprehensive restoration plan could then be formulated.

Some body up there is looking after you if the rust is very contained and hasn't spread elsewhere.Time
to buy a Lottery ticket you lucky man.

Bob

Is it really that surprising. I just presumed this was due to water getting into and sitting in that area. The panel seems to me to have rusted through from the top rather than from underneath, but cant say for sure.

[taupe]

Yes it really is suprising!

If you have a rust hole that extensive and the adjoining panels are ok you are very lucky indeed!!

Maybe it has had the panel replaced previously for a quick MOT fix and was not waxoyled on the inside?

It looks like it was only tack welded on and should have been fully seam welded to the floorpan.

Certainly I would have the sill cover off after the repair and make sure it is thoroughly protected.

Taupe

[Alex'n'Ane]

Heres a picture with the underseal removed and the rust all pushed out. The adjacent panels seem solid and have obviously been replaced not too long ago. They are still well coated with red oxide primer/ undercoat. A small repair will be required to a section of the flange which the new panel welds too.[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[Alex'n'Ane]

Also would this be the panel needed? I am already ordering parts from esm so would prefer to buy it from there
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... e8de743bb7

[taupe]

yes thats the panel....

The original had a rearward facing hole pressed in it would be worth putting this in when you repair or at least a small drain hole.

Its a bit out of focus but heres a pic



Taupe

[Alex'n'Ane]

The same as the one by the master cylinder in the chassis leg? Thanks for the help and advice