Hi all,
Having fitted underlay, new carpets and mats, my once low bite point it now on the floor.
how do i adjust it? - is it just a case of runn8ijng the nuts up the clutch adjuster rod a bit?
if so, which way do i do this?
Any advice appreciated.
Ta,
Matt
Clutch bite-point adjustment
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- Minor Addict
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Clutch bite-point adjustment
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
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Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487
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Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
Yes it is. i Believe there are 2 locking nuts.. Whichever way gives you a higher bite point.. just play around adjusting one then nip up the other.
___Anne___

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Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
There should be about 1.25in free play at the top of the pedal
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Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
great thanks - i'll have a play at the weekend
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins
Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487
Join the young owners at: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/gr ... [sig]11392[/sig]
Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
Turn the nuts clockwise to decrease free play, which is what you need to do. 1.25 ins for 1098, 3/4 for 948, measured at the top of the pedal.
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- Minor Addict
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- Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 11:01 pm
- Location: Aston Clinton, Aylesbury, Bucks or Oxford during term time
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Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
Now tightened to the extent of the thread on the adjuster rod.
Still the bite is lower than it should be.
Is there any harm in adding a few more threads, or do I just need to start saving for a new clutch?
What's intailed in a clutch change??
How much would it be likely to cOst?
Still the bite is lower than it should be.
Is there any harm in adding a few more threads, or do I just need to start saving for a new clutch?
What's intailed in a clutch change??
How much would it be likely to cOst?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins
Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487
Join the young owners at: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/gr ... [sig]11392[/sig]
Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
you can't realy move the bite point,you can only adjust the free play,all the adjustment is outside of this point,the clutch friction plate interface with the flywheel is fixed by the distance it moves between the flywheel and the pressure plate.This is set at the design stage and slowly alters as the friction plate wears..You can adjust the linkage as many times as you like the bite point will still be roughly in the same place it may feel diferent but it will still be about the same
Re: Clutch bite-point adjustment
The varying pedal position is caused by the release bearing gradually wearing down. Modern bearings tend to be ball race and do not wear, but ours are a ring of carbon which does wear down - NEVER sit with your foot on the clutch for long periods (eg waiting at lights), always put the car in neutral and release the clutch. This will prolong the life of the bearing.
Examine the linkage - if there is excessive wear on the rod. plates, or pivot, then this could account for the lack of correct adjustment - and also be getting ready to break ta an inconvenient time! It's easier to renew these than to change the clutch. However, it does sound as though you will need to think about at least some of the clutch at some point.
The clutch consists of a cover assembly, pressure plate, and release bearing. ou can change just the bit that has worn, but it's often better to change the whole lot in one go. Why? Because to change any one part, you have to remove either the engine or the gearbox. Opinion is divided as to which is easier. For your first time, you should allow at least 4 hours to remove and four hours to refit. It gets quicker with practice. The kit is available from most traders, see their price lists. If you use a garage, then expect around £35 per hour, but they should be quicker than you.
Examine the linkage - if there is excessive wear on the rod. plates, or pivot, then this could account for the lack of correct adjustment - and also be getting ready to break ta an inconvenient time! It's easier to renew these than to change the clutch. However, it does sound as though you will need to think about at least some of the clutch at some point.
The clutch consists of a cover assembly, pressure plate, and release bearing. ou can change just the bit that has worn, but it's often better to change the whole lot in one go. Why? Because to change any one part, you have to remove either the engine or the gearbox. Opinion is divided as to which is easier. For your first time, you should allow at least 4 hours to remove and four hours to refit. It gets quicker with practice. The kit is available from most traders, see their price lists. If you use a garage, then expect around £35 per hour, but they should be quicker than you.