wax (oyl) on wax (oyl) off as mr miyagi would say!!!
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wax (oyl) on wax (oyl) off as mr miyagi would say!!!
so is there any difference in it? adverts say some are better than others, what is the feedback from the floor??
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alex_holden
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Re: wax (oyl) on wax (oyl) off as mr miyagi would say!!!
Are you asking for a comparison between the various under-body anti-rust products?
Used engine oil is free and reasonably effective but horribly messy and carcinogenic, and it can wash off in wet weather making roads dangerously slippy particularly for bikes. Not good.
Underseal is horrible stuff - in my experience it inevitably fails after a few years, but it hides the rust so you don't see how bad the problem has got until it starts falling off in huge patches. Because it's so thick and difficult to remove it's sometimes used to hide rust and bad repairs, so it may put off future buyers. Avoid! ;)
Waxoyl is cheap (about £25-£30 for 5l), available everywhere, and works OK. It doesn't last forever though, particularly in areas that are exposed to road spray. One school of thought is that it's so cheap you could re-apply it once or twice a year (if you can be bothered) without breaking the bank. I've used it in the past on a Land Rover and I plan to use it on my Saloon (when I get a Round Tuit).
Dinitrol Corromax is what I used on my Traveller. It works very well but is rather pricey (about £70 for 5l) and you'll probably have to get it mail order. They also do a thicker wax for protecting areas that are exposed to road spray and gravel (eg. wheel arches). Four years on, two years of which she was used as a daily driver in all weathers, and she still looks very good underneath. I'm planning to reapply the cavity wax and have a go with the thicker wax too when the weather warms up.
Dynax S50 is supposed to be excellent stuff but I'm told it has a price tag to match (anyone have current prices? I can only find the little aerosol cans for sale online).
BTW it's best to apply Waxoyl and similar products in warm weather or a well-heated garage (after leaving the car in the garage for a day or so to warm up). Also warm the stuff in a bucket of hot water. If you don't, it thickens as soon as it lands on the cold metal and doesn't flow properly into all the little nooks and crannies.
Used engine oil is free and reasonably effective but horribly messy and carcinogenic, and it can wash off in wet weather making roads dangerously slippy particularly for bikes. Not good.
Underseal is horrible stuff - in my experience it inevitably fails after a few years, but it hides the rust so you don't see how bad the problem has got until it starts falling off in huge patches. Because it's so thick and difficult to remove it's sometimes used to hide rust and bad repairs, so it may put off future buyers. Avoid! ;)
Waxoyl is cheap (about £25-£30 for 5l), available everywhere, and works OK. It doesn't last forever though, particularly in areas that are exposed to road spray. One school of thought is that it's so cheap you could re-apply it once or twice a year (if you can be bothered) without breaking the bank. I've used it in the past on a Land Rover and I plan to use it on my Saloon (when I get a Round Tuit).
Dinitrol Corromax is what I used on my Traveller. It works very well but is rather pricey (about £70 for 5l) and you'll probably have to get it mail order. They also do a thicker wax for protecting areas that are exposed to road spray and gravel (eg. wheel arches). Four years on, two years of which she was used as a daily driver in all weathers, and she still looks very good underneath. I'm planning to reapply the cavity wax and have a go with the thicker wax too when the weather warms up.
Dynax S50 is supposed to be excellent stuff but I'm told it has a price tag to match (anyone have current prices? I can only find the little aerosol cans for sale online).
BTW it's best to apply Waxoyl and similar products in warm weather or a well-heated garage (after leaving the car in the garage for a day or so to warm up). Also warm the stuff in a bucket of hot water. If you don't, it thickens as soon as it lands on the cold metal and doesn't flow properly into all the little nooks and crannies.
Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
Re: wax (oyl) on wax (oyl) off as mr miyagi would say!!!
useful feedback thanks, i was thinking of the dinitrol stuff and would rather pay more for a better product.