Hi Everyone.
Newbee I'm afraid. I have a Pick-up with a door that wont lock and so have bought a new tumbler and removed the whole assembly from the door. The securing pin is out as are any other potential / visible obstructions to the removal of the old lock but despite pickling in penetrating oil, it doesn't want to come out.
Any suggestions before I drill it?
Any cautionary advice appreciated.
Thanks
Door Lock Tumbler Removal
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Re: Door Lock Tumbler Removal
have you put the key in the lock? ( silly question but just in case you have not)
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Re: Door Lock Tumbler Removal
Yes, been putting the key in the lock for the last three days but singularly failed in managing to turn it. Hence the decision to just replace the entire lock.
Re: Door Lock Tumbler Removal
Just checking have you put the key in the lock whilst trying to remove the tumbler as this lines up the bars in the lock.
If its all chewed up inside then carefull drilling is probably the way to go.
If its all chewed up inside then carefull drilling is probably the way to go.
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Re: Door Lock Tumbler Removal
Tried all sorts of options once it was on the bench, but key wiggling after picking did not a lot. Didn't want to snap a key off in there. ( very nasty ) So took a screw driver and used progressively greater degree's of pressure before stopping and starting this post. You never know what someone else has already learned until you ask.
Yes, I have already started drilling it out as it looks as if it's completely seized in. Drilling into the unknown I have to say - but the next option would be to replace the handle anyway, so nothing ventured nothing gained. I'll let you know if I discover anything interesting.
Yes, I have already started drilling it out as it looks as if it's completely seized in. Drilling into the unknown I have to say - but the next option would be to replace the handle anyway, so nothing ventured nothing gained. I'll let you know if I discover anything interesting.

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Re: Door Lock Tumbler Removal
The things you learn.
The barrel lock came out after some forcing, drilling and then melting the last of the die casting before cleaning up the lock enclosure with a needle file and bit of emery paper. New Barrel still didn't fit and had to decide if the enclosure was too small or the barrel too big. Opted for the latter as I could see that if anything I had made the cavity in the handle casting bigger when cleaning it up.
I opted to try linishing the new barrel using a fine disc sander and turning it as I went, while stopping regularly to test the fit. It just wouldn't fit all the way into the lock enclosure and ended up grinding the whole of the stainless steel cover off the barrel. Even then it was a very snug fit, so I took a bit more off the die casting and fitted the original lock cover plate which had fortunately pooped of during the initial forcing stage.
Had to dismantle the whole handle assembly including removing the spring in order to get the square locking pin out as this turned out to be jammed solid as well. What I assume was the original grease had turned into something akin to plaster. Or maybe it was plaster. Worth noting that the spring tail is held in the channel by burring over part of the side wall of this channel. These burrs also need to be removed to allow the spring to be removed. I used a needle punch when refitting it.
All done now though, working and re-fitted with lots of copper grease. My conclusion is that some of the new barrel locks being sold as replacement parts may be a few thou oversized at the end of the die casting with the cover cap that then also helps compound the problem. The lock I removed looked new and I was given 2 new keys that did fit but it would not turn in either direction.
I suspect that an earlier restorer had also been supplied with an oversized replacement barrel, but choose to press it into the enclosure so that the vehicle looked right rather than take the time to work out why it wouldn't turn or lock. If so then there are likely to be more oversized locks out there.[frame]
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The barrel lock came out after some forcing, drilling and then melting the last of the die casting before cleaning up the lock enclosure with a needle file and bit of emery paper. New Barrel still didn't fit and had to decide if the enclosure was too small or the barrel too big. Opted for the latter as I could see that if anything I had made the cavity in the handle casting bigger when cleaning it up.
I opted to try linishing the new barrel using a fine disc sander and turning it as I went, while stopping regularly to test the fit. It just wouldn't fit all the way into the lock enclosure and ended up grinding the whole of the stainless steel cover off the barrel. Even then it was a very snug fit, so I took a bit more off the die casting and fitted the original lock cover plate which had fortunately pooped of during the initial forcing stage.
Had to dismantle the whole handle assembly including removing the spring in order to get the square locking pin out as this turned out to be jammed solid as well. What I assume was the original grease had turned into something akin to plaster. Or maybe it was plaster. Worth noting that the spring tail is held in the channel by burring over part of the side wall of this channel. These burrs also need to be removed to allow the spring to be removed. I used a needle punch when refitting it.
All done now though, working and re-fitted with lots of copper grease. My conclusion is that some of the new barrel locks being sold as replacement parts may be a few thou oversized at the end of the die casting with the cover cap that then also helps compound the problem. The lock I removed looked new and I was given 2 new keys that did fit but it would not turn in either direction.
I suspect that an earlier restorer had also been supplied with an oversized replacement barrel, but choose to press it into the enclosure so that the vehicle looked right rather than take the time to work out why it wouldn't turn or lock. If so then there are likely to be more oversized locks out there.[frame]