Engine Rebuild

[pistnbroke]

I am what you would call an engine rebuild virgin. Started my first ever engine rebuild of an A series 1098cc with a+20 rebore and a reground crank.
Already made my first mistake fitted the crankshaft with new bearings then the pistons, rods and bearings only to find that I could not get the bolts on the rear cover (where the oil seal should be but isnt) as there was nut enough room between the back of the block and the crankshaft - oh well. Maybe I just didnt read the manual properly

Question is do I need to use gasket goo on all the gaskets both sides? and do I use thread lock on all of the bolts?

Thanks in advance

[SvMinor]

I was a rebulid virgin when I joined the club too,but thanks to the rest of the members on here I managed to get it sorted.

I used the "gasket goo" on the sump, both sides of the gasket and put plenty on the cork gaskets too.
cured an oil leak I had at the rear of the sump

I didnt use any thread lock,the advice I was given was to torque everything up as per manual.

One other thing is to get a complete engine locktab set,and make sure to bend up all the tabs to hold the bolts in place.

[bmcecosse]

NOOOOOOOOO! Don't use ANY gasket goo. Why would you? BMC didn't use any - you don't need it either. Just make sure everything is clean. And no - no need for thread lock either. Hopefully you are fitting a nice new oil pump with that reground crank........

[pistnbroke]

Yes bought new oil pump and set of tab washers which leads to more confusion.
My main bearing caps did not have tab washers fitted when I took them off but I have a new set with the lock washer set do I use them?
The workshop manual goes on about oil leaks from the pump cover and re-soldering it. Mine was loose when I removed the rear plate but I dont understand the re-soldering bit in the manual (AA33).
Thanks for the advice

[alex_holden]

I tend to use Hylomar Blue on the gaskets that I think are more likely to leak (eg. the timing cover and the sump - they are thin pressings so they are never perfectly flat), and a smear of ordinary grease on gaskets that are sealing two flat machined surfaces. I know some think gasket cement is the work of the devil, but it doesn't do any harm and reduces the chance of leakage later. I also use gasket cement between the oil pump cover and backplate. The head gasket should be assembled dry, BTW.

I would definitely use tab washers on the main bearing caps.

The only place I can remember using threadlock is on the various studs (the end that goes into the block). Oh, and on the two countersunk screws that are part of the duplex timing chain kit.

[bmcecosse]

There is no need to solder the oil pump cover - that's a load of 'mince'! If you look under the oil pump there is a little drain hole - so any oil that escapes from the pump (and why would it!?) can run away down the hole. Of course - if there is undue pressure in the crankcase, obviously oily fumes will come UP that hole - the simple answer is to make sure there is no pressure by having adequate suction from the inlet system on the crankcase.

[MarkyB]

If you are keen to use some gasket goo, put it on one side of the gasket and put grease on the other side.
This works very well for the rocker box, put the cement between the gasket and the cover, and the grease on the head.
Then you can remove cover and gasket as one and don't need to replace the gasket every time.

Fit the head gasket dry or with some grease.

If you use cement on both sides all you do is guarantee that the gasket will be destroyed when it is removed and that it will be a pain to get the surfaces clean again.