Advice on fitting a reconditioned gearbox

[scammell]

Hi, I have a reconditioned gearbox I'd like to fit to my 1968 2 door saloon. I have never done this before and was wondering if anyone has any advice to make it easier for me as the manual looks a bit daunting!

Any help will be most appreciated.

Kind regards, David.

[bmcecosse]

Welcome to the forum! The box can be changed from below without removing the cover - but it is much easier to do so, although the screws holding the cover down are often seriously seized. If you have lifting tackle - you may find it easier to remove the complete engine/gearbox as one piece, then swap the box and then refit the complete assembly. You must make sure you are swapping like for like - ie smooth box for smooth box, or ribbed box for ribbed box - and well worth inspecting the clutch plate and the carbon thrust release bearing while you are in there.
You should add your location in your profile - there may be folks just round the corner willing to come and give you a hand - in exchange for tea and biscuits!

[MarkyB]

Some people will suggest taking the engine and box out as a lump, you can do that if you like.

Another pair of hands and eyes is always useful (if only to make tea).
I'd suggest taking to floor above the gearbox out as it lets you get to the captive nuts that hold the cross member which almost invariably seized up. Also it means you can undo the linkage from above which gives you a rest from laying under the car.

Put it up on tall ramps or axle stands to give as much room as possible underneath.
Don't let the weight of the gearbox hang on the shaft.
Drain the oil out or it will leak out when the propshaft is removed.

It may be necessary to remove the heater tap from the back of the engine for it to angle back enough to get the box out.

That's all I can think of for the moment, I'm sure there's more tips and tricks.

[scammell]

Thanks for your advise, I really appreciate it. The new gearbox I have is ribbed like the old one. A job for a nice summer's day I think.

Kind regards, David.

[Matt]

If the old gearbox is working ok dont swap it! Recons often arnt all they could be (and often use 2nd hand parts )

[stevey]

If your taking the engine and box out its worth checking the condition of the rubber mounts for both. Its likely if its never been touched they might be past their best.

[aupickup]

also wise to fit a new spigot bearing bush as well

[bmcecosse]

I agree with the earlier comment about the 'reconditioned' gearbox. Would be worth taking the side cover off - takes about 2 minutes - and inspecting the gears. Look carefully at the little 'dog' teeth on 2nd gear - and compare them with the ones on 4th gear. 4th gear 'never' wears - so the teeth will be nice and sharp - and that's also what the teeth on 2nd gear should look like! If however they are rounded and worn looking - then obviously a new 2nd gear hasn't been fitted, and it may crunch/jump out of gear.[frame][/frame]
In this picture - 2nd gear is to the left - and the teeth are pretty much as good as the 4th gear (and 3rd gear) teeth.[frame][/frame]
In this second picture - the 2nd gear teeth are noticeably more worn (as are 3rd and 4th to a lesser extent) . It's probably still a serviceable gearbox, but obviously not as good as the first one !
It's difficult to see 1st gear - or the laygear - but with a good bright light and some squinting - you should at least be able to see if there are any teeth missing (or seriously chipped) on the laygear where it meets up with first/reverse gear. Hopefully not!