Startin engine after re build?

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SvMinor
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Startin engine after re build?

Post by SvMinor »

Engine is now fitted.oil and coolant replaced.what should I do now to ensure safe running and the head doesnt blow.do I need to run the engine with rad cap off

Cheers Mark[/quote]

mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

Double check that everything is bolted down tight, correct torque, check hoses, cables etc. fuel pump works, ignition works. Check oil and water.
When you are satisfied, turn the engine over on the handle to check that it turns over freely and the valves are operating ok.
Did you fill the filter with oil?
Disconnect the leads to the coil and remove the plugs and spin the engine over on the starter until you build up some oil pressure and you have pumped oil all round the engine. Listen for any strange noises.
Re connect the coil and plugs and try starting the engine. Any problems when it fires up switch off immediately.
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SvMinor
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Post by SvMinor »

yeah mike the filter is full of oil.
What worries me is how to make sure I dont get an airlock.
And it blows the head gasket.
how do I make sure this doesnt happen

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Post by StaffsMoggie »

Dont worry, an airlock wont blow your head gasket. Do all that Mike said and start it up with the radiator cap off and the radiator full. Also make sure the heater tap is open. Let the engine tick over, looking out for any leaks and watch the water level in the radiator. As the engine warms up the water will rise and some will probably spill out of the filler neck. You will see air coming out as the water rises. Eventually as the thermostat opens the water level will drop. That should be all the air out. Top it up, put the cap on and thats it.
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Post by bmcecosse »

There's no such thing as an 'airlock' - but it is essential to get oil pressure up before even trying to start the engine. And squirt some oil down the bores too. When it does start - keep the revs down - and check immediately for oil leaks -especially at the filter casing! Were the sealing plate and spring definitely present inside the casing when you fitted the new filter element ?
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StaffsMoggie
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Post by StaffsMoggie »

Ive seen a few with nothing but the element in the oil filter casing!
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Post by bmcecosse »

Sadly - that is often the case.
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SvMinor
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Post by SvMinor »

i fitted a spin on filter conversion kit

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Post by bmcecosse »

I don't like them - on principle - but they certainly get round the problem of throwing out the plate with the filter!
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Post by StaffsMoggie »

I suppose that is the main advantage of those kits. Perhaps the filter is easier to change too but the original type is easy once you get the hang of it.

Interestingly, Triumph Dolomite 1850s, Sprints and TR7s had paper element oil filters, they must have been the last cars to have them.
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Post by bmcecosse »

Yes - my TR7 has exactly the same filter - but the 'plate and spring' are secured to the shaft and can't easily be thrown away!
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Post by alanworland »

My wifes BMW MINI has a cartridge type paper filter, they must have made some advances because there are no bits to lose inside!
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SvMinor
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Post by SvMinor »

Done everything as mentioned before about building up oil pressure,befor starting the engine, reconnected all leads but the engine wont start it just turns over,it will not fire.

At roughly the same interval while turning the engine over there is a PUFF sound from the engine.

Got my wife to pull the starter while I pulled each spark plug in turn and each plug is sparking.

Everything was working before the engine was pulled from the car,so could there now be a problem with the points or dizzy

Or would the timing be out,I put the timing sprockets on as per manual,TDC and all that and dots lining up.

Im scratching my head here

What could the problem be

Help!

bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Most likely - it could be 180 degrees out. So try swapping the leads around 1 to 4 and 3 to 2 and obviously reverse the others. Are the valve gaps set ok ?
However - did you have the camshaft out - and/or the drive shaft to the dizzy ? If they were disturbed it could be one tooth out. But fingers crossed for simple 180 degrees!
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SvMinor
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Post by SvMinor »

Roy can you explain in more detail,180 degrees out?
Swap the leads on the plug ends round ok simple enough.
What other leads need swapped round?

Didnt take the camshaft out although did have the dizzy drive out.

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Post by nigelr2000 »

as you look at the top of the dizzy cap starting with 1 it goes in order 1 3 4 2 if the leads are 180 dgrees out it is actually firing 4 when it should fire 1. therefore keep the same order and put 1 where 4 is now and so on round clockwise. Hope that makes sense, I did exactly the same thing when fitting a new cap, popped the bonnet of my other moggy and copyed the lead configuration, which was 180 out compared to the one I was replacing :(. that will teach me for being lazy and not checking the firing order on the old cap !!! and yes it did make the odd chuff noise when it was out

I intend to live forever.....so far so good

The other place to be :- http://mog.myfreeforum.org/index.php
SvMinor
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Post by SvMinor »

Shes Alive Shes Alive!!!

Just done what Nigelr and Bmc suggested.

Worked a treat

Cant thankyous enough

If either of you are ever in Currans Bar in Dunsford the Drinks are on me :lol:

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Post by bmcecosse »

Well done - it's been quite an adventure for you I think!
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SvMinor
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Post by SvMinor »

I Really enjoyed it even though I had to do it twice with the 948 parts.

Its the only way to learn in my opinion,I said once before "Ill try anything once"

Id do it all again.

And its mostly all down to YOU Roy for your Fantastic Advice along the way

Many Many Thanks

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Post by bmcecosse »

Just hope it's all been worth it! Hopefully no nasty leaks - and do remember to retorque the cylinder head after the first heat cycle, and re-set the valve gaps.
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