I have a Spax front shock kit that is proving less than easy to fit. The instructions are not accurate as the upper plate holes are spaced much differently than shown. This raises several problems:
1. How do I establish the best location vertically? It suggests the shock should not be at full extension when finding the best height for the top mount but how does that relate to finding an accessible spot for the nuts that will be located between the inner wing and the existing damper?
2. When I do position the shock mounting plate with a small amount of compression one of the mounting plate holes is positioned right over the existing 50mm hole in the inner wing. That would mean the shock is only held by 3 bolts not 4. I could lower this plate and take out 30mm of compression stroke but will this still allow me enough? BTW the car is standard height.
Spax shock kit
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Peetee
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2002 9:20 am
- Location: Southampton
- MMOC Member: No
Spax shock kit
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
My Minor has a Spax kit on the front - I bought it that way. The top mount does overlap the existing hole in the inner wing, but it's welded on. Sorry if that's not 100% helpful but I'm guessing that's the 'correct' position for the mount.
You should be able to work out the maximum suspension deflection by measuring from the bump-stop, scale that down according to the position of the lower mount for the Spax and check that's not fully compressing it.
Does that make sense?
You should be able to work out the maximum suspension deflection by measuring from the bump-stop, scale that down according to the position of the lower mount for the Spax and check that's not fully compressing it.
Does that make sense?
-
Peetee
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3428
- Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2002 9:20 am
- Location: Southampton
- MMOC Member: No
Ta for that.
I've now measured available compression on the suspension leg based on position of bumpstop and it's 110mm. Maximum available compression on the damper is 120mm. assuming the bumpstop stops it dead (which it doesn't) then lowering the top damper mounting by 10mm to stop top out puts the 3rd bolt hole through the existing 50mm inner wing hole AND the top of the plate is fouling the curvature of the inner wing so it can't sit flat. Put it any further down to avoid the curve and the shock will deffo' top out before the bumpstop is reached.
This is getting worse....
I've now measured available compression on the suspension leg based on position of bumpstop and it's 110mm. Maximum available compression on the damper is 120mm. assuming the bumpstop stops it dead (which it doesn't) then lowering the top damper mounting by 10mm to stop top out puts the 3rd bolt hole through the existing 50mm inner wing hole AND the top of the plate is fouling the curvature of the inner wing so it can't sit flat. Put it any further down to avoid the curve and the shock will deffo' top out before the bumpstop is reached.
This is getting worse....
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
110 mm doesn't sound enough 'compression' stroke! You certainly need to make sure the damper doesn't bottom out - even if the bump stop falls off - - and also that the damper is not taking the rebound force of the suspenion on 'droop' - even if the rebound stop falls off . The existing lever arm dampers certainly have all that excess travel built in - for a good reason! If either of these events occur on your car - the damper mount will just be torn from the inner wing. Bolting it on doesn't sound very practical anyway!!
Sounds like you should send this amazing 'kit' back for credit - and simply renew the oil in your existing lever arm dampers - with more viscous oil if you want a bit more damping. You'll be amazed how good they are just with NEW SAE 20 grade oil - 30 or 40 is even better!
Sounds like you should send this amazing 'kit' back for credit - and simply renew the oil in your existing lever arm dampers - with more viscous oil if you want a bit more damping. You'll be amazed how good they are just with NEW SAE 20 grade oil - 30 or 40 is even better!
