Clutch Fork sloppy on mount

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sirrom
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Clutch Fork sloppy on mount

Post by sirrom »

I have recently rebuilt my engine and now I have noticed that I had a rattling sound while idling.
Upon inspection I have found that there must be a bit of wear in the bush where the bolt goes through to mount it onto the front cover of gearbox.
Have looked through the inspection holes in bell housing and the fork is mounted Ok with bolt and nut but there must have been some wear in the bush that I hadnt pick up on.
Can anybody see any issue leaving it or should I fix it.
Sirrom - New Zealand
mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

It is really just a case of how much movement there is. If you can reach the clutch forks and move them around then you probably need to do something about them. Are you sure that the bolt is tight? If I remember correctly the hole in the plate is threaded and there is a lock nut on the end of the bolt. I don't know if you can get a spanner on it through the inspection hole. If you over tighten then you may restrict the movement of the forks.
The alternative is to leave it a while and see if it gets any worse.
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Is the external return spring on the clutch mech ? It should hold it firmly when not in use!
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sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

Yes the external spring from the lever to the engine backplate is in place and quite tight. This morning I have adjusted the clutch but can still hear it when idling without engaging clutch. As soon as you engage clutch the noise goes.
Sirrom - New Zealand
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

I would say the return spring will hold it to kill any rattle - must be something else!
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sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

Think I will lift engine out and have a good look
Sirrom - New Zealand
mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

It wouldn't be a sloppy starter bendix would it? Mine rattles a bit.
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Why would it stop rattling when clutch is 'engaged' - which is confusing in itself! Does it rattle when the clutch is OUT (ie foot is on pedal and no drive is transmitted to the gearbox ) - or when clutch is IN (= 'engaged', drive is transmitted to the gearbox)? If the latter - is there any oil in the gearbox - is it the gears that are rattling ??
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sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

Its not the bendix have been under the car and moved the clutch fork can feel movement and hear the rattle. The rattle is when foot not on pedal but as soon as you push pedal down it stops, doesnt matter if in gear or not. Cant hear when driving, and gearbox is full of oil. Have made a start taken radiator out and got hoist out.
Sirrom - New Zealand
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

agree with above that 'clutch engaged' may mean different things to different people.
Technically the clutch is open (aka Disengaged / IN) when you press the pedal fully.

Usually the clutch lever return spring is strong - sometimes it can get weak or get replaced by a choke return spring. A good strong spring should stop any lever rattle unless there's something worse wrong.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
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Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
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2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

I am beginning to think they is a bigger problem and there is only one way around that otherwise wouldnt be confident.
Sirrom - New Zealand
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Does the clutch/gearbox work ok otherwise ?? Why not try a stronger spring before launching into engine out mode!
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sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

Nearly there, just have to undo bottom engine bellhousing bolts.

Let you know the out come
Sirrom - New Zealand
mike.perry
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Post by mike.perry »

Just another thought. It is not the side of the clutch pedal touching the edge of the hole through the floor pan? Is there any movement on the clutch pedal when you press the brake pedal or vise versa? This would indicate wear in the bushes where the rod goes into the chassis..
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sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

Engine out and found that bush in clutch fork where the bolt is was absolutely stuffed really worn oval. Have dug through my spares cupboard and found another one and have fitted that and it sits there quite firmly.
Just as well I took out as I found the pressue plate centre where the carbon thrust sits against wasnt sitting evenly. Its a 1098cc engine and box. So replaced that as well.Next job to fit back in.
Thanks for help guys. Its good to have some other input and the forum makes interesting reading and you can learn somethings just by following some if the Q&As
Sirrom - New Zealand
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

Just as well I took out as I found the pressue plate centre where the carbon thrust sits against wasnt sitting evenly.
This can happen if a clutch spring breaks but there have been a few where the crimp that holds the pivot adjuster screws isn't that good and the clutch can self distruct.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
sirrom
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Post by sirrom »

Engine back in car and running ok, none of the prior rattles.
thanks
Sirrom - New Zealand
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Yes - the misplaced thrust pad is mentioned in another current post too! It's easily done when struggling to fiught the box and engine back together. Glad you got it sorted.
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