Wobbly side & window removal

Post by **shymoggie** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 12:34 am

I don't believe this car !!!!!!

Nearly MOT'd.... hopefully this week.
But I noticed that when you slam the drivers door, the whole rear side panel shakes

I guess this is the pillar to roof section, more welding

So my question to the panel of experts is:
How do you get the rear quater window out of a 2-door - and back in again without breaking it ? Is there a trick ?

Post by **Scott** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 3:27 am

Shy,
Is the rubber nice & soft or brittle & hard?
The window fits from the inside, so if the rubber is soft & worth saving, pushing gently & easing the rubber over the body lip will do the job. If the rubber is shot, then cut it along the edge to release its hold on the body lip, then the window will fall in.
Fitting it back in is easy - use a cord to ease the rubber back over the body lip. It's basically the same at the 1000 windscreen, but roped from outside while pushing from inside.
I hope you enjoy welding - sounds like you'll be an expert soon.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 1:52 pm

watch out for the strange clips, which no one seams to know what there for.

Post by **salty_monk** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 2:22 pm

You can leave these out on the re-fit though, right??

I have one of these side windows to do too when it finally stops raining along with the water pump radiator flush, heater flush blah blah blah the list goes on!!

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 2:30 pm

shymoggie,
Well we did warn you about getting one to put back on the road....
But personally I find it's one of the the best feelings to get an MOT for a car that may have otherwise ended up scrap.

Post by **shymoggie** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 5:23 pm

Scott wrote:Shy,
Is the rubber nice & soft or brittle & hard?
The window fits from the inside, so if the rubber is soft & worth saving, pushing gently & easing the rubber over the body lip will do the job. If the rubber is shot, then cut it along the edge to release its hold on the body lip, then the window will fall in.
Fitting it back in is easy - use a cord to ease the rubber back over the body lip. It's basically the same at the 1000 windscreen, but roped from outside while pushing from inside.
I hope you enjoy welding - sounds like you'll be an expert soon.

Scott,

The rubber - like most things on a 35 year old motor - is shot to pieces so I guess I can cut it out.
Could you explain this roping business ? I've never, after a ridiculous amount of old cars, had to replace a non-opening window or windscreen... help ???

As for welding, I'm having the MOT bits (or loads) done for me, then the tidy up stuff is for me to learn on

Lucky I have a spare car to practice on innit !!!!

Thanks Ray ! I know you told me..... I should know anyway - been there done that FAR too many times. But Emma wanted so Emma got and I STILL have the thumb print on my head to prove it

Post by **ColinP** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 7:42 pm

Ok, it's been a long time since I did one, but:

When you need to replace the glass, first of all you're going to need a new rubber seal.

Fit the seal into the hole (there's a ridge inside the space, and there's a groove in the rubber.)

Now you have to get the glass into the rubber seal. first, take some smooth rope/string which will just fit into the groove inside the rubber seal. If it's too thin it will tear the rubber!

now add a little washingup liquid (and water) to act as lubricant. Lay the cord into the groove - all the way around (a small overlap will help)

Hold the glass firmly against the rubber, and gently pull the cord. The cord will pull the rubber lip back enough so tht you can just pop the glass into the seal - bit by bit - all the way around.

You will realise that practice helps, as does having about 4 to 5 arms. It's also difficult to get two people into this work-space at the same time (let alone agree how it's done), so you're in for a fun time.

Best of luck,

Colin

Post by **Scott** » Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:21 pm

Colin,

Does that way work? I've only ever done it with the glass & seal "assembled" first, then roping the rubber over the aperture lip.

Shy,
Sorry if this confuses you Shy but this is the way I do it:
1. Fit the rubber to the glass - make sure it's the right way.
2. Insert the rope into the groove that the body lip would fit into - use plastic string (slipperier than hairy string) about 5mm in diameter - as Colin said: too thin & it'll cut the rubber. Make sure the rope overlaps. It's usually easier to fit the seal onto the bottom lip first, this way gravity will help you. The rope will overlap at the bottom when fitted this way.
3. Use plenty of lubricant (I think "Fairy liquid" has been mentioned as paint friendly on this site) on the rubber.
4. Fit the seal onto the bottom body lip & have someone inside push gently as you pull the seal over the other body lips using the rope. Take it nice & easy & it should be OK. It might be tighter along the last edge.

Post by **Kevin** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 9:32 am

Shy let us know how you get on as its a job for the future I have got to do, also I sent a reply about the steering wheel.

Post by **salty_monk** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 9:39 am

Captn Chaos told me when we met up to do it the Scott's way however he recommended using 2.5mm cable flex which is the right thickness, easy to get hold of, slippery & cheap.....

He also recommended leaving a loop of cable at each corner so that you had some extra to pull through if it slipped as you were doing it...

If he reads this I'm sure he'll elaborate, another pair of hands is required to put a reasonable amount of pressure on the glass from the inside I think....