van cab rubber replacement
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
van cab rubber replacement
Hello, the cab rubber on my van is looking tatty and I would like to replace it. Can this be done with the cab and van body in situ or will I have to remove the body? Any handy tips on this would also be great. Thanks
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2031
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:09 pm
- Location: Room 7609
- MMOC Member: No
hi fudge!
congrats on your taste in having a van
my own van is reaching the end of a [very] long restoration, and i recently did the cab/back rubber, with considerable help from aupickup and my husband.
what we did was fit the cargo area loosely on to the chassis, so that it was touching the cab section but could be slid into closer contact as needed. In order to get to this stage with your own van i guess you would need to undo all the bolts holding the cab to the back (which you will need to do anyway) and also the bolts holding the cargo area to the chassis.
Then we eased the rubber carefully into position, without cutting it. We worked from one bottom end to the other, starting at the lowest level of one side and easing round over the roof and down the other side. I'm not convinced that it wouldn't have been better to have started in the centre of the roof and work outwards in both directions. Anyway, the trick is to stretch the rubber a bit as you go, enough to slip it snugly into the crevice between cab and back, but not too tightly, not so as to really stretch it. (Then when you get to the two bottom ends, slip and stretch them right down past the b posts, while tightening the bottom bolts).
The tricky part is working out how and when to cut the holes in the rubber which let the bolts pass through and clench the whole lot together. If you cut/punch them before fitting the rubber they will be in the wrong places. If you leave them till you are actually fitting the rubber it is much harder to gain access. If i were doing the job again i would cut them while fitting the rubber - you have to slip the rubber into the crevice, mark where the bolts will go, then slip the rubber out again, make the hole, slip it back in again and put the bolt through. Faffy but possibly gets a better fit.
run out of memories, hope this much has been of some help! My strongest advice would be - take your time, and it's much easier to do this job with two of you, and preferably at least one set of muscles.
congrats on your taste in having a van

my own van is reaching the end of a [very] long restoration, and i recently did the cab/back rubber, with considerable help from aupickup and my husband.
what we did was fit the cargo area loosely on to the chassis, so that it was touching the cab section but could be slid into closer contact as needed. In order to get to this stage with your own van i guess you would need to undo all the bolts holding the cab to the back (which you will need to do anyway) and also the bolts holding the cargo area to the chassis.
Then we eased the rubber carefully into position, without cutting it. We worked from one bottom end to the other, starting at the lowest level of one side and easing round over the roof and down the other side. I'm not convinced that it wouldn't have been better to have started in the centre of the roof and work outwards in both directions. Anyway, the trick is to stretch the rubber a bit as you go, enough to slip it snugly into the crevice between cab and back, but not too tightly, not so as to really stretch it. (Then when you get to the two bottom ends, slip and stretch them right down past the b posts, while tightening the bottom bolts).
The tricky part is working out how and when to cut the holes in the rubber which let the bolts pass through and clench the whole lot together. If you cut/punch them before fitting the rubber they will be in the wrong places. If you leave them till you are actually fitting the rubber it is much harder to gain access. If i were doing the job again i would cut them while fitting the rubber - you have to slip the rubber into the crevice, mark where the bolts will go, then slip the rubber out again, make the hole, slip it back in again and put the bolt through. Faffy but possibly gets a better fit.
run out of memories, hope this much has been of some help! My strongest advice would be - take your time, and it's much easier to do this job with two of you, and preferably at least one set of muscles.

-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:46 am
- Location: Burnley
- MMOC Member: No
If you tell us where you are (probably best to fill in the location box in your profile), there might be someone nearby who could help.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2031
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:09 pm
- Location: Room 7609
- MMOC Member: No
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2031
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:09 pm
- Location: Room 7609
- MMOC Member: No
you're welcome frank - always chuffed to help any Malteser
forgot to say: leave a foot or so of the rubber hanging down below the skirt level at each side. You'll need it to grab hold of in order to give the rubber its final stretch.
Also, have a care when fitting the rubber round the cab gutter section, it will stretch in such a way as to leave a front-facing gap just below the gutter, and the best thing often is to make a tiny slit in the front-facing portion of that point of the rubber, to let it ease around the gutter.
Also, you can fit the rubber dry, ie no dumdum or sealant. Some KY jelly helps to ease it into the crevice (sorry, mods, blame Cam) but can backfire by making everything too slippery to get a purchase on. You can try it and wipe it off if it doesn't work for you.
ps I learned all this from aupickup who is a superstar

forgot to say: leave a foot or so of the rubber hanging down below the skirt level at each side. You'll need it to grab hold of in order to give the rubber its final stretch.
Also, have a care when fitting the rubber round the cab gutter section, it will stretch in such a way as to leave a front-facing gap just below the gutter, and the best thing often is to make a tiny slit in the front-facing portion of that point of the rubber, to let it ease around the gutter.
Also, you can fit the rubber dry, ie no dumdum or sealant. Some KY jelly helps to ease it into the crevice (sorry, mods, blame Cam) but can backfire by making everything too slippery to get a purchase on. You can try it and wipe it off if it doesn't work for you.

ps I learned all this from aupickup who is a superstar

-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2031
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:09 pm
- Location: Room 7609
- MMOC Member: No
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:46 am
- Location: Burnley
- MMOC Member: No
wibble_puppy wrote:
But once you start rolling you can flatten a mountain...



Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 7592
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Watford, Hertfordshire.
- MMOC Member: No
No need to apologise Juliet, personally I prefer to use Swarfega as its a little less slippery but it often comes down to what you have to hand.Some KY jelly helps to ease it into the crevice (sorry, mods, blame Cam)
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:46 am
- Location: Burnley
- MMOC Member: No
Apparently Swarfega is quite corrosive to steel. My dad's company used to sell a piece of test equipment that included a jar of it as an electrolyte. The prototype had steel electrodes in the Swarfega that completely corroded away within a few months.Kevin wrote:No need to apologise Juliet, personally I prefer to use Swarfega as its a little less slippery but it often comes down to what you have to hand.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
-
- Moderator
- Posts: 7592
- Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Watford, Hertfordshire.
- MMOC Member: No
Really I hadn't heard that before, and its a hand cleaner that I have used for many years with no side effects, I wonder what's in it to cause that sort of reactionApparently Swarfega is quite corrosive to steel.

Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
-
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2031
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:09 pm
- Location: Room 7609
- MMOC Member: No