Locked Brakes

Post by **wroberts** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:20 pm

Hi could any one help. I have a 1967 morris that was completly renovated 10 years ago. unfortunatly due to one thing and another, the last 4 years has stood in the garage. The wheels are solid and athough if i move it forward and backwards the wheels are grinding and It feels I am pulling a tank. the hand brake has allways been off and wheels choked. but they are stuck. Is there any way I can manually release them so as to get it to a garage . I realy have basic knowledge thanks.

Post by **Dean** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:19 pm

You need to release the brakes by the adjuster through the wheel. Jack up the wheel, stick a screw driver through the hole in the wheel, locate the screw then turn until wheel turns freely. There are two adjusters for each front wheel, but only one for each rear. Will probably take an hour depending on what jack you have.

Post by **dalebrignall** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:20 pm

if you are going to slacken off the adjusters you need tto turn the screw anti clockwise to slacken off and clockwise to tighten up

Post by **d_harris** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:42 pm

Dean, you post wasn't entirely clear. The later cars don't have a hole in the wheel to adjust only in the drum, you have to remove the wheel.

I believe the hole in the wheel was series MM and Series 2 cars only.

Post by **MoggyTech** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:14 am

If the car was laid up with the handbrake off and the wheels are dragging, this is due to seal swell, caused by water contaminated brake fluid. There will be bore corrosion in the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder as well.

Rebuild the brakes, or have it moved to garage on a trailer, as brakes are likely to be useless.

Post by **kennatt** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:58 am

I think after four years I would also re build the braking system,You might get them to free up and work but having once or twice in my driving life had that foot to the floor and nothing there feeling.Don't want to feel it again thank you very much

Post by **Dean** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:02 am

Dan_Harris wrote:Dean, you post wasn't entirely clear. The later cars don't have a hole in the wheel to adjust only in the drum, you have to remove the wheel.

I believe the hole in the wheel was series MM and Series 2 cars only.

Sorry, still learning myself. Yes I have a series 2.

Post by **wroberts** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:28 am

Thank you I will have to have it transported to the local garage. Does anyone know the cost for replacing the brakes as I have been quoted around £250 plus vat ? not including the master.Does that seem about right ?? Thanks.

Post by **newagetraveller** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:04 pm

The inside surfaces of the brake drums that make contact with the brake shoes have rusted up and this is causing the shoes to catch on the drums when the wheels are rotated. Take off the drums and clean off the rust with a wire brush and emery paper. Then clean up the surfaces of the brake shoes with a wire brush.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 10:04 pm

The cylinders are VERY likjely to be corroded solid - so no amount of wire brushing will help - unless you also renew ALL the cylinders, including the Master cylinder. I would advise 3 new flexible brake pipes - and probably all the solid pipes renewing too unless they were wisely made from Kunifer at the last overhaul. £250 may be about right - IF it includes all the above work. You could DIY for a good bit less.

Post by **kennatt** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:01 am

I feel really sorry for owners who are unable to diy,looking at the price lists about £150 for all the bits. a lot less if some parts can be salvaged. Not only this but all the other threads where cars are towed off to garages,for small(To us diyer) jobs to be done.In 43 years of car ownership, exept mots, none of my long list of car has been touched by a garage mechanic.Minors are very basic cars ,owners can learn about how they work via workshop manuals and this forum.There's nothing more satisfying than sorting a problem out yourself.I'm probably lucky to be from the days when just about everybody who had a car was unable to afford to pay for repairs and you had to do it yourself. I did my first decoke on my fathers sunbeam talbot when I was 15 , with his supervision and he paid ME

(Only 10 shillings by the way). As said really sorry for owners who are not as fortunate.

Post by **d_harris** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:48 am

Renewing the brakes is really not a difficult job. I mean, if I can do it, how hard can it actually be?

The most difficult bit is pulling and replacing the master cylinder and thats really just because it can be a bit awkward to get at.

£250??? Jeez. £25 to replace the pipes (if they are steel) no need to do if they are kunifer
I sources most of the rest of the bits on ebay. I think the rear cylinders cost about £30 the pair and all 4 fronts cost about £40.
Budget around £60 for a new master cylinder (bloody VAT!) I bought the shoes years ago so no idea what they coset.

And then a mornings work under the car. This is of course assuming that the drums are still servicable (but they should be, you will prob need to run round the insides with some emery to smooth it off)

I was lucky when I did the brakes that we still had the Master Cylinder from the old trav kicking around and in really good condition so I just renewed all the seals.

Post by **wroberts** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:14 pm

Thanks everyone, you have been most helpfull. I will put in motion the car being towed and barkes done by morris specialist at Mill Hill. I feel that its best to have it done properly, to avoid a nasty accident.
I will have to bite the bullett and pay. (Well the old girl deserves a bit of attension after 4 years).

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Jul 03, 2008 11:38 pm

For that money - make SURE they are renewing absolutely everything except the brake drums - and the whole system will be as new and should give you a few years of trouble-free braking!