Front Inner Wing to Wheel Arch Flange

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MGFmad
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Front Inner Wing to Wheel Arch Flange

Post by MGFmad »

I have a question about the flange where the inner wing (flitch) and wheel arch join. On my old rusty panels, the flange had been dressed over flat against the wheel arch - is this the way the car was made originally or has someone just bashed it over?

Just wanted to know the correct way to finish the flange. I have highlighted the area with the red line just in case my description is bad :roll:
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aupickup
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Post by aupickup »

well i had as totally original van and that was as yours is
on my original car it is dressd over

so there the choice

maybe dressed over looks better, but not sure if its so good for holing mud etc , and therefore rust
bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

Only ever been bashed over on one of the 6 I've owned, and I've spent a lot of time cursing the person who did it when trying to replace the flitch :(
MGFmad
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Post by MGFmad »

Thanks for the quick replies. I think I will leave it as it is - I am a bit concerned about bashing it over as it did look like a bad mud trap on the old panels.
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stag36587
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Post by stag36587 »

Just to confuse things a bit, on my very rusty old minor, it is bashed over from about halfway only - towards the rear - same on both sides so I'm assuming this was done in the factory.
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aupickup
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Post by aupickup »

yes same as my car
my van was left
youngun
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Post by youngun »

On the old rusty one i tore off, which was the original, it was dressed over. So thats what i did on mine.
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rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

As you've replaced the panels anyway it won't be concours. I've seen mostly bent over flanges (on cars) but that's a mud trap. As some are not bent over, that leaves both options open.
Personally I leave the flange as it is - however the rear of the arch can come close to the tyres, so if you run crossplies (slightly bigger diameter) you may want to check tyre clearance on full lock with compressed suspension (easiest to do that without the torsion bar connected).
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June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
wanderinstar
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Post by wanderinstar »

Dont they still have an original bodyshell at Derby. They used too. Perhaps someone could look at that and see?
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Post by ASL642 »

Yes, its hiding in the corner next to all the large Regalia boxes for the National Rally, all covered up! :lol:

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paulk
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Post by paulk »

In the workshop manual (Section R21) it describes how bending over this small section of flange gives better clearance for the wheels on rough roads.

Looks like its a Morris sanctioned Post production Bodge. :)


Oh and Milly has it (right pain it was to work around too) I'm planning on filling it in with dum dum or something to try and prevent it being a mud build up point.
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1959 2dr Milly
Has now sat in back garden for 5 years :(
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MGFmad
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Post by MGFmad »

rayofleamington wrote:As you've replaced the panels anyway it won't be concours. I've seen mostly bent over flanges (on cars) but that's a mud trap. As some are not bent over, that leaves both options open.
Personally I leave the flange as it is - however the rear of the arch can come close to the tyres, so if you run crossplies (slightly bigger diameter) you may want to check tyre clearance on full lock with compressed suspension (easiest to do that without the torsion bar connected).
Concours is not my thing so that won't be a problem, but just out of interest - are replacement panels frowned upon in such contests?
youngun
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Post by youngun »

MGFmad wrote:
rayofleamington wrote:As you've replaced the panels anyway it won't be concours. I've seen mostly bent over flanges (on cars) but that's a mud trap. As some are not bent over, that leaves both options open.
Personally I leave the flange as it is - however the rear of the arch can come close to the tyres, so if you run crossplies (slightly bigger diameter) you may want to check tyre clearance on full lock with compressed suspension (easiest to do that without the torsion bar connected).
Concours is not my thing so that won't be a problem, but just out of interest - are replacement panels frowned upon in such contests?
I think just about anything that isnt original is, bunch of pedantic weirdos'.
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

I think just about anything that isnt original is, bunch of pedantic weirdos'
I wouldn't quite take it that far! I presume you weren't intending to offend ;-)

Originality is a prized possession amongst the concours. Rebuilding a car can be done in a way that is not obvious - in which case it's not a major problem for a show car. If the shell restoration is plainly visible, it will loose some marks.

One thing that gets me, is that some people are finicky about originality when they don't ever intend to compete in shows with the car. Anyway - that's way off subject, so I'll shut up!
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
bigginger
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Post by bigginger »

Thank you - I did post an answer earlier, but deleted it, as it could have been taken wrongly...
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

I have left the flange as in the above pic, except ground it down so there was less sticking out. I too decided not to bend it over as the Minor has enough rust traps as it is.

On the latest project, I made my own inner wing rear sections (complete with captive nuts) and cut the section so that it butted up to the inner wheelarch at 90degrees. Then I butt welded the corner so there is no rust trap, no overlap at all.

If you do bend the flange over, make sure you clean it out and fill with waxoyl every year.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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youngun
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Post by youngun »

chickenjohn wrote: If you do bend the flange over, make sure you clean it out and fill with waxoyl every year.
Or paint the 2 faces with weldthru primer before bending the panel over, then seam weld it so no moisture can get in there in the first place :D
Ultimate rust cure for your moggy....paint it brown, at least that way you dont notice the rust as much!!
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

Yes, your welding looks good Youngun, so that could work, but I'd also clean up the welds, zinc prime, seam seal, paint (two coats chassis black) then heavy underbody wax (re-applied yearly).
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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