Master Cyl Replacement

Post by **d_harris** » Wed May 21, 2008 10:52 am

Okay, 2 things.

I've got a master cyl repair kit from BM and I have the MC from the old trav (the cyl was about 18 months old when the car was broken) So this MC has been sitting around in the garage for about 4 years - is it likely to want new seals etc?

The other thing, what is the easiest way to get the old MC out and the new one in (by Easiest I mean the route I am least likely to screw up!) is it remove the Torsion bar completely? Find a way to bend it so its not in the way of the bolt (any suggestions for how to do this would be grand)

This is one of the last big jobs to do on the trav to get it roadworthy, so I'm quite keen to have it done!

Post by **bigginger** » Wed May 21, 2008 11:06 am

Use a bar/screwdriver to bend the torsion bar - and have the right size spanners - 5/16W, afair. Don't forget to do the rear pipe/MC first then run it through the chassis leg when replacing - undo it at the rear when removing, then pull cylinder forwards to undo union.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed May 21, 2008 1:02 pm

That's if the bolts haven't been turned round already - if they have , it's dead easy. When re-assembling, check there is clearance between the torsion bar and the bolt ends - and not just a few thou either! If insufficient either put a washer or two under the bolt head - or cut a little bit off the end of the bolt. You should look for 3/16" clearance.

Post by **kennatt** » Wed May 21, 2008 5:33 pm

bet its rusty and will rip the new seals after 6 months then the job needs doing again.Put a new one in Just my repeated opinion

Post by **d_harris** » Wed May 21, 2008 9:45 pm

and yes, if I had any spare pennies that would be the route I would take. However when you are skint £7 and a little bit of work is significantly better than £50.

I'm expecting the other cylinder not to be too bad as its been in a dry environment and wrapped up so fingers crossed

Post by **wibble_puppy** » Wed May 21, 2008 10:12 pm

fingers crossed for ya dan

Post by **les** » Wed May 21, 2008 10:17 pm

If there is any rust ( doubtful) use some 800 grade wet and dry paper and gently smooth the bore, clean with meths, dry and assemble with brake fluid. Probably discloured more than rusty.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Wed May 21, 2008 11:06 pm

Why not just use as is - keep the new seals for another day.

Post by **d_harris** » Thu May 22, 2008 6:17 pm

The other cylinde the outer seal thing on the end had started to perish so I thought it prudent to sort out the whole lot.

Spent the afternoon sorting it all out. There was zilch corrosion on the inside of the cylinder - good news that! In the end to get the bolts out I took a section of steel box and jacked it against both chassis rails, then pulled the torsion bar down with a g clamp and removed the bolts - replacement was the oposite.

Relativly stress free, but not something I'd look to attempt again soon.

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri May 23, 2008 10:14 am

Handy tip there. Well done.

Post by **d_harris** » Fri May 23, 2008 12:56 pm

Didn't much fancy the crowbar approach, to my mind theres a lot more to potentially go wrong there as you are trying to pull of a crowbar and bang a bolt through at the same time. The G clamp method is a lot more controllable imho and you can see if the clamp is going to slide off so you can either smack it with a hammer to bring it back or carefully back it off.

Worked really well. I would definatly do it that way again.