Clutcen h problem

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lalaw
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Clutcen h problem

Post by lalaw »

Hi,
I'm putting in 1098cc engine in my Minor.
It had already a ribbedcase gearbox fitted by a previous owner.
When I took the old engine out I discovered that the gearbosx had been converted from RHD to LHD with parts (front cover and clutch fork) from a smooth gearbox. The parts was modified and was leaking oil so I bought a new frontcover and clutch fork.
Yesterday I mounted the new engine and gearbox but there seems to be to much play in the clutchpedal.
I've also have fitted a new clutch kit. The clutch adjusting rod is adjusted to the limit.
The pedal start disengage the clutch almost at the floor.
any ideas?
Br Lars
[img]http://hem.bredband.net/b677567/morris_liten2.JPG[/img]
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

The release mechanism (lever and release bearing) are different between the 1098 and the 948.
Part of the reason is that the clutch cover is deeper on a 1098 so the release bearing has a different offset.

My first guess would be that you've got all the parts for a 1098 but are using the 948 clutch cover (or some similar miss-match of parts)

Sadly you've learnt the hard way :( The best thing to do is to check that the release lever is up against the clutch with plenty of travel before putting all the bell housing bolts in.

Back to your previous issue - the 948 gearbox cover in LHD (that had been re-drilled to 1098). Can you tell why it was leaking? I did the same conversion on my 54 (early LHD front plate on 1098 gearbox) and it worked ok.
Don't throw the plate away - the LHD versions are very hard to come by! Second hand price in the uk is £20+
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

I agree some mismatch - but have a good look into the bellhousing through the handy inspection holes to determine where the problem lies!
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lalaw
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Post by lalaw »

Hi,
I took some pictures with my phone before putting them togather,
Maybe you can spot what part that is the mismatch? I think that Ive used only 1098cc parts. the Clutch cover is new (came with the clutch kit)
It was leaking from the "bottom" because it was not so well made, I know they are expensive I had to pay 59£ for my new cover....
Br Lars
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[img]http://hem.bredband.net/b677567/morris_liten2.JPG[/img]
rayofleamington
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Post by rayofleamington »

Well that's definately a 1098 clutch cover not 948.

Does the release lever reach the hole in the bellhousing when moved both ways?

Also, the front plate looks cast - I was told that it is only possible to get the LHD version 'machined from solid' now.

For some reason I thought you had the engine in the car - at least you've not got that far, so not much effort to get it apart again.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.

Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block :(
Onne
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Post by Onne »

Unless the car is an original LHD Ray.
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bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

But it was a RHD gearbox that had been 'converted' to LHD by PO.
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lalaw
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Post by lalaw »

Hi,
I bought the clutchcover from ESM.
The Engine and gearbox is in the car I took the pictures before I discovered the problem....
I have one idea.. Before I changed engine the setup was 948cc engine, 1098cc gearbox modified with 948cc parts. Maybe the clutch adjust rod has been modified. How long should the rod be and how far should it be threaded?
Br Lars
[img]http://hem.bredband.net/b677567/morris_liten2.JPG[/img]
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

Ask ESM if it's definitely the correct housing for the box - and the correct fork ? I think they may be slightly different too. I assume it's a new carbon thrust - not easy to see from the pictures, and it looks like you have used the correct thicker 1098 engine backplate. BTW - Are the little securing clips on the carbon thrust posts (although nothing to do with this problem) - again hard to see from the pics
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lalaw
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Post by lalaw »

Hi,
Yesterday I had sometime to work abit more with the clutch.
I hope I found the problem(s).
I bought a new "clutch adjustment rod" the new one was threaded 10mm more than the old one. I also bought new bushings for the clutch linkage.
(good thing that I live 10 minutes away from the only company in sweden that sells Morris Minor parts:))
When I was mounting them I discovered that one of the mountingholes for the had been moved acouple of mm since the there was a broken bolt in the original place.
I drilled out the broken bolt and installed the linkage in it original place.
Now the clutch feels ok (I haven't started the engine yet) but the adjustment is almost at the maximum.
When the clutch wears what way will you have to adjust it?
Br Lars
[img]http://hem.bredband.net/b677567/morris_liten2.JPG[/img]
bmcecosse
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Post by bmcecosse »

You will have to shorten the rod as it wears. But it does sound like problem solved- just make sure the carbon thrust is NOT rubbing on the clutch when your foot is not on the pedal - and in use - absolutely minimise time on the clutch - never sit in gear with the clutch down for example.
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