Progress report....advice needed!

Post by **youngun** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:09 pm

Right then,

A fairly busy weekend, i took my Car theory test (and passed) and also managed to get on with the morris.
The pictures below were taken yesterday, i have since welded the outer sill rail in place as well. The floor edge panel to the rear sits flush to the floor and will be butt welded, there is an overlap closer to the cross member. The front floor edge panel is fully overlapped by about 1/4 inch.
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... n08001.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... n08002.jpg
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... n08003.jpg

I fitted the doors back on and the kickplates to make sure everything fitted fine and that the door edges sat flush with the outer sill rail finisher.
Which thankfully did fit perfectly!
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u118 ... cJan08.jpg

theres a few more pics if anyone wants to see.

yg

Post by **chickenjohn** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:43 pm

Good work! Keep up with the updates.

Post by **kennatt** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:19 pm

I good friend of mine (the best welder and car repairer I have ever seen work, now retired after 50 years in the trade of coach building)Used to say that the best way to repair rusted out panels was to take the cut back to the original factory joint,Expensive but the best way. The next best thing was to make up your own joint. Rather than butt weld or lap join,he used to use a swageing tool that put a step in one edge of a sheet of metal then the two could be laid into each other .You could then spot weld through the joint and then seam weld along the step giving a very strong joint. He had an air tool to do this swage,I bought a hand operated one,with a combined punch to make the hole to spot through.I have had reasonable success on straight joins but I think you need the air driven one to go round curves.One benifit is that you can grind the weld and with minimum filler have perfectly flat finish. I was once in the workshop where he was finishing off a car with roof damage. He had used this method to replace a partial roof section,when the insurance engineer came in Quote I did'nt know there was a factory joint in that area. Its the best tool I have ever bought,Realy good for making up little sections to insert into the a and b posts,and invaluable for inserting new door repair sections,you realy can't see the join

Post by **Matt** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:48 pm

The tool you are talking about is called a "joddler" ;)

Post by **bigginger** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:54 pm

...and the hand roller or bench mounted cranked ones are better for curves that the air powered ones IME
a

Post by **kennatt** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:51 am

yeh joddler i remember now