Oil leak again!!!!

[bmcecosse]

The set-up shown in the pics is ideal - both vent pipes connected to vacuum. No chance of fume escaping and much less chance of oil leakage.

[al2006]

Update-
Thanks for the suggestions so far- very helpful.

I've discovered I do have a crankcase breather which doesn't run to the carb.
Would connecting this to the carb create more of a vacuum and improve engine efficiency/oil leak problems?

I've also noticed some slight oil bubbles escaping from the seal where the later MG metro head meets the engine. Head gasket? This was replaced a few weeks ago.

Anymore words of wisdom would be appreciated....

[bmcecosse]

Yes attach the pipe to carb - won't increase 'efficiency' but should solve some of the oil leak problems. I would just tighten down the head - 44 ft lbf torque, and reset the valve gaps.

[bigginger]

Cylinder head nuts = 40 lbs/ft (BMC workshop manual)
a

[bmcecosse]

But that's not for Mg Metro head !!
And in fact if the stronger studs and head nuts from the Metro engine have been fitted (and they are a v good idea) - then the torque should be 50 ft lbf !
The figure of 44 will be perfectly safe with the original studs (was advised for Cooper S engine) - and goes part way to the later 50 figure advised for these engines.

r

[alex_holden]

I've also noticed some slight oil bubbles escaping from the seal where the later MG metro head meets the engine. Head gasket? This was replaced a few weeks ago.

Did you use a Payen head gasket? They seem to be better than the cheaper sort.

[bigginger]

But that's not for Mg Metro head !!
And in fact if the stronger studs and head nuts from the Metro engine have been fitted

A big 'if' - standard (old) studs may well not take it

The figure of 44 will be perfectly safe with the original studs

As you may remember, not in my experience unless they're new
a

[bmcecosse]

Don't remember Andrew - did you strip one ? Obviously they do need to be in good condition - and I strongly urge use of the later Mini/Metro studs (Y mark on fine thread end) and the later nuts with load spreading 'washer' built in.
r

[al2006]

This forum is great.

[bigginger]

Don't remember Andrew - did you strip one ? Obviously they do need to be in good condition - and I strongly urge use of the later Mini/Metro studs (Y mark on fine thread end) and the later nuts with load spreading 'washer' built in.
r

Snapped 2 on two engines, both inside the block. Torque wrench was/is good - lesson learned,only new will do.
a

[bmcecosse]

Amazing - have never snapped one - and when I raced Mini I didn't have a torque wrench - and just made them as tight as possible. Stripped a few - but never ever broke any - and being a v poor student at the time - nothing was new!
r

[bigginger]

The studs were newer then, and had been through fewer tightening cycles
a

[Matt]

I have broken a few too...

On of them got to 70 odd ft/lbs before it broke ;)

[Kevin]

Stripped a few - but never ever broke any - and being a v poor student at the time - nothing was new!

How time flies when you are having fun Roy one minute a student the next early retirement and still playing with A series engines

[bmcecosse]

Tell me about it Kevin!! Time flies indeed.
What were you doing tightening to 70 ft lbf Matt?? I would honestly have thought the fine thread would strip out before that figure. Before the days of torque wrench - I simply tightened until I felt the 'yield'.