Water pump replacement

[Mike Shipman]

Hi - SADMOG's mechanical numpty (ie me) is hoping to replace the water pump on Benny Traveller this weekend .
Ive had a look through the Haynes manual and MMOC Technical tips, but any other hints 'n' tips would be most welcome.
Cheers, Mike.
ps - any guesstimates on how long it should take?.

[MoggyTech]

Can be done one of two ways. If you don't mind fiddling with the hockey stick nuts, you can take the front off the car complete with radiator, which gives great access. It can be done with everyting in situ, or you can take the radiator out which is a good time to reverse flush it.

Other than that, it's straight forward. Use a new gasket, and fit the bypass hose losely to pump and head, then swing the pump into position. Tighten the bypass hose, refit the rad and away you go (after filling with water and anti freeze )

[Kevin]

Hi mike I prefer to take the Rad out as the hockey stick nuts are often corodded in place and you can snap the studs, to take the rad out and replace the pump really shouldnt take you more than a couple of hours maybe a little more if you are mechanically challenged but its not a difficult job, you will probably have to scrape whats left of the gasket of the block so make sure you have something suitable like the back edge of a hacksaw blade, replace the bypass hose as a matter of course dont use the bellows type as they dont last anywhere near as long as the solid type and dont worry if you cant get the solid type as its exactly the same as a piece of heater hose so just cut a piece of that to the right length and follow MoggieTech method to pop it all back.
Just a thought if any of the jubilee clips are ropey fit some new ones.

[Mike Shipman]

Thanks for that

[Matt]

Well we know you have a new gasket and some heater hose don't we? ;)

[M25VAN]

And don't be surprised if the surface where the gasket fits to on the pump has a 'rounded' finish instead of the usual flat surface. When I replaced my pump recently with a QH unit it was like this and didn't look right at all. Apparently it's an improvement and I haven't had any leaks.

[ColinP]

One problem I had (depends on the replacement pump)

The locating pins (on the front of the block) actually hit the inner end of the matching depressions of the pump....
This meant that the pump would just not seal.

Do offer the pump up first and check it seats ok.

(eventually I realised this, and used a drill/file to solve the problem).

At the end, I could replace the pump in 45 minutes......

You'll find it a good time to back-flush the block and radiator!

Colin

[rayofleamington]

make sure you clean up the face of the block very well - and lumps of old gasket and debris can stop the new gasket from sealing.
I use a blunt stanley knife blade for cleaning gasket surfaces. No problem on cast iron, but do take care on aluminium not to cut chunks out with a sharp blade.

[Mike Shipman]

Thanks again for the additional comments.

Im afraid that once again, family requirements conspired to rob me of the time to do the job so its back on hold again.

Still, Ive got your sage words to assist when I finally get round to it.

Cheers, Mike.

[ColinP]

ike,

You must be thankful that

Im afraid that once again, family requirements conspired to rob me of the time to do the job so its back on hold again

With the local weather this week-end you wouldn't have been able to see any leaks from the system!

Cheers.

Colin