Track rod end boot replacement

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:36 pm

While struggling with a stuck lock nut on the steering rack, I noticed the rubber boot on the TRE is on its last legs.

How easy is it to replace the rubber? Or is it simpler to replace the whole TRE? They aren't very expensive on ESM and my TREs don't have the grease nipple on so it's tempting just to replace them.

cheers,
[dave]

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:54 pm

Bull motif used to sell new top cover seals for TRE (hardly a 'boot' ?) - so if the joint is ok - just pop one on - but slabber some grease in first.

Post by **millerman** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:04 pm

Try your local motor factor first!

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:06 pm

If ypu mean the concertina boot at the end of the rack and you've removed the tre, just fit one to be safe.

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:14 pm

bigginger wrote:If ypu mean the concertina boot at the end of the rack and you've removed the tre, just fit one to be safe.

The rubber on the TRE itself...I'm already replacing the steering rack gaiter as that is also split

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:17 pm

Ah - my mistake

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:25 pm

bmcecosse wrote:Bull motif used to sell new top cover seals for TRE (hardly a 'boot' ?) - so if the joint is ok - just pop one on - but slabber some grease in first.

OK, ta. Just wanted to check I didn't have to dismatle the TRE to fit it. I assume once the nylok nut is undone the TRE should just pull out of the steering arm.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:52 pm

I assume once the nylok nut is undone the TRE should just pull out of the steering arm.

usually not! It should be tightly locked in a taper on the steering arm. A ball joint splitter should do the trick and are a useful investment as they should last a lifetime.

Post by **Packedup** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:56 pm

You'll need a ball joint splitter. I've got a hit and hope one, that usually destroys the rubbers but gets the job done. As you don't need to care about the rubber in this case that's all you need

Certain people have been known to superglue old rubbers back together...

Post by **rayofleamington** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:08 pm

Certain people have been known to superglue old rubbers back together...

Don't laugh but... it also works for split widscreen wipers on MOT day

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:50 pm

rayofleamington wrote:
I assume once the nylok nut is undone the TRE should just pull out of the steering arm.
usually not! It should be tightly locked in a taper on the steering arm. A ball joint splitter should do the trick and are a useful investment as they should last a lifetime.

OK, I'm gonna show myself up now as a complete numpty...

How do I use a ball joint splitter? Seen pictures of one but no idea how it's used!

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 5:57 pm

What type do you have? The sort like a big tuning fork. or the type with a bolt that you screw in?

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:01 pm

Neither...I was just window shopping around the net for one. Which is best?

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:10 pm

hmmmm - the fork ones are cheapest, and a little easier to use, if more brutal

The ones with a bolt on are a little trickier,but won't damage the rubber as much - probably. I'd go for the kind with the bolt, to be honest. You put the forked section of it between the steering arm and tre and the bolt onto the tre itself (leave a nut on the tre loosely done up, it helps with the location) and do the bolt up - it forces the taper apart. I'll try to take a pic, watch this space

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:43 pm

That's only resting on there, so not lined up/square at all. As I say, leaving the nut on slightly helps with the location as you do the bolt up.

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:50 pm

Ahhh, I get the idea. Thank you very much for taking the trouble with the photo...a picture tells...etc

I guess with the simple fork type hammering in the wedge drives the TRE up while the fork slides down the sides of the taper? I can see how that would chew up the rubber.

thanks,
[dave]

Post by **bigginger** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:21 pm

No problem

Yeah, you just hammer the other sort in where the top of that one is. Now, what I want to know is how the, um, dickens one does the things up again. It seems wrong to rely on hammering the taper in until it holds, and it doesn't always work, either

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:26 pm

Oh dear - thats NOT the best kind to get! Far better with the larger hinged type - which operates like scissors in reverse. Cost slightly more - but last 'for ever'. http://www.minisport.com/classic-mini-s ... oduct.html Not saying you should buy from them - others will be less expensive. I think mine was £5 some years ago! In fact - a taper joint like this can be released by hitting both sides of the body of the taper with two large hammers - simultaneously. This shocks the taper loose. Works even better if a third hand (sometimes possible with knee) keeps pressure on the joint with a long steel bar or pipe.

Post by **sansom** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:30 pm

bigginger wrote:Noproblem Yeah, you just hammer the other sort in where the top of that one is. Now, what I want to know is how the, um, dickens one does the things up again. It seems wrong to rely on hammering the taper in until it holds, and it doesn't always work, either

Ah...I never though about that...do you just hammer on the top of the TRE? Sounds like it'll do more harm than good! Even with a rubber mallet...

Could you use the bottom nut to pull it down into place?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:32 pm

NO - you DO NOT EVER hammer on top of the tre !!!!!!!!!