Brake pedal return spring
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- Minor Friendly
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Brake pedal return spring
Hi Everyone
So, the new master cylinder is in - piece of cake, don't know what all the fuss was about!! I now need to fit a brake pedal return spring. Two problems: I don't have the spring and there doesn't appear to be anywhere to hook it to.
However, I inherited a box of brake parts which includes some springs which aren't the shoe return springs, so they may be the pedal return springs. Does anybody have one in their garage they cound measure so that I can check. Also, can anyone tell me exactly where it hooks onto? How far down from the pedal pivot is it?
Many thanks
Pete
So, the new master cylinder is in - piece of cake, don't know what all the fuss was about!! I now need to fit a brake pedal return spring. Two problems: I don't have the spring and there doesn't appear to be anywhere to hook it to.
However, I inherited a box of brake parts which includes some springs which aren't the shoe return springs, so they may be the pedal return springs. Does anybody have one in their garage they cound measure so that I can check. Also, can anyone tell me exactly where it hooks onto? How far down from the pedal pivot is it?
Many thanks
Pete
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- Minor Fan
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The Brake pedal return spring looks very similar in size/shape to the throttle return spring on the carburettor. As regards its position one end should fit to a welded on bracket in the bottom of Chassis member in front of the pedal and the other end fits onto the Clevis pin linking to the master Cylinders push rod. Unfortunately for you I believe you have to take the Master Cylinder out to fit it.
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It's actually quite easy to fit when you have the knack. Sadly it took me a few years and a lot of skinned knuckles and swearing to find 'the knack'!
1) Make sure the pivot pin (the one that attaches pedal to M/C pushrod) is free to rotate. If it's stuck in place, then this method won't work very well. Having tried other methods, I'd free up a stuck pin rather than try anything else.
2) Hook the far end of the spring into the chassis leg. To do this you can move the pedal to it's uppermost position - this 'just' allows hand access into the leg.
3) Get a 2 foot long piece of (strong) electrical wire and assorted screwdrivers and thin nosed pliers. Make the wire into a loop and attach one end of the loop to the near end of the spring. Wrap the other end of the loop round your fingers/fist.
4) Pull hard on the wire to stretch the spring. (If it hurts your hand too much then fit a bar in the loop and pull on the bar). Use various tools to offer up the sping hook to the hole in the pivot pin. If the pivot pin hole isn't quite in the right place, rotate the pin with the pliers, and try again. Rotate the pin a bt after the spring is fitted to make sure it is well located on the hook - and not just on the tip of the hook.
5) when the spring is securely in place, remove the electrical wire and press the pedal lots of times to watch it spring back, and feel very proud...
Once you've got the hang of it this way can be done in minutes (max). Don't feel too bad about struggling - this job can take hours if trying to do it without using a loop of wire.
1) Make sure the pivot pin (the one that attaches pedal to M/C pushrod) is free to rotate. If it's stuck in place, then this method won't work very well. Having tried other methods, I'd free up a stuck pin rather than try anything else.
2) Hook the far end of the spring into the chassis leg. To do this you can move the pedal to it's uppermost position - this 'just' allows hand access into the leg.
3) Get a 2 foot long piece of (strong) electrical wire and assorted screwdrivers and thin nosed pliers. Make the wire into a loop and attach one end of the loop to the near end of the spring. Wrap the other end of the loop round your fingers/fist.
4) Pull hard on the wire to stretch the spring. (If it hurts your hand too much then fit a bar in the loop and pull on the bar). Use various tools to offer up the sping hook to the hole in the pivot pin. If the pivot pin hole isn't quite in the right place, rotate the pin with the pliers, and try again. Rotate the pin a bt after the spring is fitted to make sure it is well located on the hook - and not just on the tip of the hook.
5) when the spring is securely in place, remove the electrical wire and press the pedal lots of times to watch it spring back, and feel very proud...
Once you've got the hang of it this way can be done in minutes (max). Don't feel too bad about struggling - this job can take hours if trying to do it without using a loop of wire.
Last edited by rayofleamington on Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
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where to break down next?
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Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

after several attempts to fit a new spring to mine I did the following unscrewed the plunger to pedal rod by undoing the locking nut and turning the plunger rod. they eventually separate and leave the pedal and rod free from the master cylinder and the plunger still held in the cylinder by the rubber cover.once disconected the pedal and rod were free to move away from the master cylinder.the spring is then fitted with out any problem since it is not under tension.Then by pushing the pedal down against the spring the rod and plunger can be mated up and screwed back together then re adjust the free travel.tighten the lock nut and job done.
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- Minor Friendly
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Thanks everone for the info. I obviously need to make a bracket but the remaining question is how far forward from the yoke pin should it go. If anyone can remember or estimate it that would be great. Another way of looking at it is how far do you have to stretch the spring when fitting it? The reason I'm still fishing is because the position of the bracket will obviously affect the tension on the pedal. Many thanks, Pete
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- Minor Legend
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.......or use a pair of Mole gripsrayofleamington wrote:It's actually quite easy to fit when you have the knack. Sadly it took me a few years and a lot of skinned knuckles and swearing to find 'the knack'!
1) Make sure the pivot pin (the one that attaches pedal to M/C pushrod) is free to rotate. If it's stuck in place, then this method won't work very well. Having tried other methods, I'd free up a stuck pin rather than try anything else.
2) Hook the far end of the spring into the chassis leg. To do this you can move the pedal to it's uppermost position - this 'just' allows hand access into the leg.
3) Get a 2 foot long piece of (strong) electrical wire and assorted screwdrivers and thin nosed pliers. Make the wire into a loop and attach one end of the loop to the near end of the spring. Wrap the other end of the loop round your fingers/fist.
4) Pull hard on the wire to stretch the spring. (If it hurts your hand too much then fit a bar in the loop and pull on the bar). Use various tools to offer up the sping hook to the hole in the pivot pin. If the pivot pin hole isn't quite in the right place, rotate the pin with the pliers, and try again. Rotate the pin a bt after the spring is fitted to make sure it is well located on the hook - and not just on the tip of the hook.
5) when the spring is securely in place, remove the electrical wire and press the pedal lots of times to watch it spring back, and feel very proud...
Once you've got the hang of it this way can be done in minutes (max). Don't feel too bad about struggling - this job can take hours if trying to do it without using a loop of wire.

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- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2031
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2004 6:09 pm
- Location: Room 7609
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