crankshaft tight
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Axolotl
- Minor Fan
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- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:14 am
- Location: Burghfield Common
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I guess that is their intention. If it is rubbing the layer of blue, it is too close?
Four thou was probably sufficient tolerance to ensure it wouldn't touch at any point, hence the engineer's blue to check it wasn't touching.
Autobooks put it a different way, without the measurements:-
"When it comes to fitting the rear cap, coat the horizontal surfaces with jointing compound. If there has been trouble with oil leakage into the clutch housing, look at the rear end of the crankcase where there is the upper half of the housing which collects oil thrown off by the thrower ring on the crankshaft behind the rear bearing. [...] The half circular part must be close to but must not actually touch, the oil return scroll cut in the the crankshaft behind the knife-edged thrower ring. Before fitting the rear cap, verify that this rear cover is exactly flush with the bottom face of the block and has an even clearance al round the top half of the crankshaft. If this is not so, slacken the three fixing set screws, tap the cover into the correct position and re-tighten the screws. The jointing compound on the rear cap will now make a good oil seal on this rear cover."
Four thou was probably sufficient tolerance to ensure it wouldn't touch at any point, hence the engineer's blue to check it wasn't touching.
Autobooks put it a different way, without the measurements:-
"When it comes to fitting the rear cap, coat the horizontal surfaces with jointing compound. If there has been trouble with oil leakage into the clutch housing, look at the rear end of the crankcase where there is the upper half of the housing which collects oil thrown off by the thrower ring on the crankshaft behind the rear bearing. [...] The half circular part must be close to but must not actually touch, the oil return scroll cut in the the crankshaft behind the knife-edged thrower ring. Before fitting the rear cap, verify that this rear cover is exactly flush with the bottom face of the block and has an even clearance al round the top half of the crankshaft. If this is not so, slacken the three fixing set screws, tap the cover into the correct position and re-tighten the screws. The jointing compound on the rear cap will now make a good oil seal on this rear cover."
Cheers, Axolotl.
I know that you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.
I know that you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.
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RogerRust
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I'm sure that every one except me knew this but on my 948 the con rods are in two pairs you have to look closely to find the one that lines up with the big end before you push the piston down the bore otherwise you'll have to swap them around.
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
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Willie
- Minor Legend
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rear crank oil return
Good luck with the scroll assembly setting. It seems that they cannot get it right most of the time on the factory reconn'd gold seal units from what I have heard.
Willie
[img]http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e197/wuzerk/mo9.jpg[/img]
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Well lots of good advise here. I've got a new gasket and tapped rear cap up snug to the top cap and I can just about get .08m feeler gauge to curl in between the crank and cap all round so I know its not touching. I can't realy see how I can do any more!
On with the duplex chain next!
On with the duplex chain next!
[sig]5824[/sig]