Is it this easy?
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- Minor Addict
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Is it this easy?
There have been several threads re alternative wheels for Minors.
So, if i wonder along to the car breaker, get an appropriate wheel bring it home , remove a front hub or 1/2 shaft put the wheel on top to use as a guide to drll holes for the Ford, etc. wheel studs. Put the studs in, fit wheels and away I go!!!
Or am i likely to have BIG problems?
Cheers all
So, if i wonder along to the car breaker, get an appropriate wheel bring it home , remove a front hub or 1/2 shaft put the wheel on top to use as a guide to drll holes for the Ford, etc. wheel studs. Put the studs in, fit wheels and away I go!!!
Or am i likely to have BIG problems?
Cheers all
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You need to make sure that the flange around the stud has enough metal (least likely to be a problem with 100mm PCD). It needs to be very accurately machined to prevent runout.
You'll need to redrill your (cast Iron) drums accurately as well.
But basically if done by a good machine shop, this will give a good result (it's not 'very common' but it is common practise)
The rear may be less of a problem - the front could be harder. If the front hub has 4 lobes (can't remember properly - it's too late and I've been working on the Land Rover hubs this evening) then you will need to get the new holes to sit where the old holes were but on a slightly different centre.
If you use bigger diameter studs it is possible to completely remove all traces of the old stud hole - which would be 'best practise'.
You'll need to redrill your (cast Iron) drums accurately as well.
But basically if done by a good machine shop, this will give a good result (it's not 'very common' but it is common practise)
The rear may be less of a problem - the front could be harder. If the front hub has 4 lobes (can't remember properly - it's too late and I've been working on the Land Rover hubs this evening) then you will need to get the new holes to sit where the old holes were but on a slightly different centre.
If you use bigger diameter studs it is possible to completely remove all traces of the old stud hole - which would be 'best practise'.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

Very difficult to do this properly unless you have a machine shop at your disposal. As Ray says - the front hubs are 'square' and so the new studs would need to go almost where the old ones are at the moment. I would say it would very unwise to attempt this using only hand tools ! Why do it anyway ? Some of the alloy wheel manufacturers (certainly Minilite) will make wheels for you at 4 " pcd - - if you are willing to go down to 13" diameter there are shed loads of wheels produced for the classic Mini on 4" pcd (always plenty on ebay) - and if just want some wider wheels then the later van wheels are 4 1/2 J and they are around if willing to pay the price - good thing is they will always hold that price and probably rise again, so it's like putting money in the bank!



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- Minor Legend
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This job is always better entrusted to a machine shop - or DIYer with appropriate tools/skill. It is not difficult however and allows you to fit what you want (within reason). However, as bmcecosse has said - try Ebay first off for wheels that will fit your existing pcd - I know minilites are a bit common, but there are others out there - just have patience and they will turn up.
Pete
Pete
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/sinky_aps/4e634210.jpg[/img] [img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v436/sinky_aps/MorrisRain4.jpg[/img]
I had my Celica (4.5") axle modified to Ford (4.25") stud spacing. A top hat shape was turned up to fill the existing stud hole. The top hat part was on the back side. Then the 1/2 shafts were redrilled to 4.25" PCD.
I did the drums with my pillar drill using the 1/2 shaft as a jig. The drums are less critical as they locate on the centre. They are then clamped between the wheel and half shaft. The holes are there to let the studs pass through.
The same principle can be used on the front hubs.
Its certainly not easy but can be done.
I did the drums with my pillar drill using the 1/2 shaft as a jig. The drums are less critical as they locate on the centre. They are then clamped between the wheel and half shaft. The holes are there to let the studs pass through.
The same principle can be used on the front hubs.
Its certainly not easy but can be done.
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- Minor Addict
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Just be glad they haven't got 4 x 5" PCD!!
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Sun Mar 10, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Yeovil and Sturminster Newton
- MMOC Member: No
Depends what wheels you'r after and what you can find, but you could always re-drill the wheels to fit the car, you can always change back in the future then, or if a half shaft goes you won't have to get one altered before fitting.
I had a set of weller 8 spoke wheels drilled so they take Morris and Ford PCD. Just a thought.
I had a set of weller 8 spoke wheels drilled so they take Morris and Ford PCD. Just a thought.
cheers, Daniel
[img]http://www.daniel-robins.co.uk/becky%20web%20pics/20052.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.daniel-robins.co.uk/archie/10107.jpg[/img]
The pulling power of a Turbo Diesel! The voices may not be real, but they have good ideas.
[img]http://www.daniel-robins.co.uk/becky%20web%20pics/20052.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.daniel-robins.co.uk/archie/10107.jpg[/img]
The pulling power of a Turbo Diesel! The voices may not be real, but they have good ideas.
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- Moderator
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Steel weels have a 'reinforced' section around the nut - this may well be to prevent stress cracking, so if you just drill in a flat steel area it's not going to be the same. The raised area next to the nut also allows a bigger contact area for the V shaped back ot the nut, which also helps reduce the stress concentrations. Thirdly the area where the nut fits is slightly raised -this allows the entire face of the drum/disk/hub to be in contact with the wheel for strength. If you put bolts into a flat area, then the steel distorts under load and only the area by the nut is in contact with the drum/disk/hub.
Concentricity:
Unless you have some centre bore locating rings made to ensure the wheel is fully concentric then you still need the rim mods done with specialist machine tools to get the accuracy.
Hand drilling the holes won't be that accurate, although with a LOT of care (more care than I could manage) and then some accurate filing to get things right afterwards it could be 'good enough' regarding concentricity (but you still need to be sure about the strength of the steel where the nuts fit).
Alloys: Some come with 2 sets of drillings anyway but the wheel centres are designed differently to accomodate that. For alloys with 4 holes, I've not seen any that are designed to have additional holes drilled (the bosses are missing behind). I guess that some alloys could be ok, but it depends completely on how that area is designed.
Concentricity:
Unless you have some centre bore locating rings made to ensure the wheel is fully concentric then you still need the rim mods done with specialist machine tools to get the accuracy.
Hand drilling the holes won't be that accurate, although with a LOT of care (more care than I could manage) and then some accurate filing to get things right afterwards it could be 'good enough' regarding concentricity (but you still need to be sure about the strength of the steel where the nuts fit).
Alloys: Some come with 2 sets of drillings anyway but the wheel centres are designed differently to accomodate that. For alloys with 4 holes, I've not seen any that are designed to have additional holes drilled (the bosses are missing behind). I guess that some alloys could be ok, but it depends completely on how that area is designed.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Sun Mar 10, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Yeovil and Sturminster Newton
- MMOC Member: No
good point, redrilling alloys is not wise and your right most steels do have the raised parts for the nuts, I should have kept quiet.
But, wellers are just a flat plate in the middle and the holes on mine are originally just holes and countersunk for the nut, so I had them done the same with different pattern by an engineer.
You could just stick a mk1/2 escort axle in, convert to front sierra disc conversion with ford PCD hubs and make life simple with a huge choice of ford rims.
But, wellers are just a flat plate in the middle and the holes on mine are originally just holes and countersunk for the nut, so I had them done the same with different pattern by an engineer.
You could just stick a mk1/2 escort axle in, convert to front sierra disc conversion with ford PCD hubs and make life simple with a huge choice of ford rims.
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Sun Mar 10, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Yeovil and Sturminster Newton
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If your running marina setup then you have a wider choice of wheels already. If I remember correctly marina PCD is the same as modern Rovers have, 98mm I think which is the same as some old Triumphs because I put Montego wheels on a Vitesse kitcar. They did some nice alloys for the later Rovers, Isn't the traveller on the front of the latest Minor Monthly on Marina running gear and Rover alloys? sounds like problem could be resolved.