Distributor

[zippy500]

I have a replacement distributor to fit.

Can some explain in laymans terms in fitting the replacment.(as I have never done this before) I think I am more than capable in fitting it, I just dont have any timing kit for setting up

Thanks

[RogerRust]

Set the old one so that the points are just opening have a good look to see where the rotor arm is pointing. Then put the car in gear and the hand brake on to stop the engine from turning. Remove the old dizzy by loosing the clamp bolt and pulling it out. Set up the points etc on the new one then plug it in (make sure the rotor arm is pointing to about the right place first) gently turn the new dizzy 'till the points are just opening again. Clamp it all up, take the engine out of gear and fire her up!

[RogerRust]

I left out all the obvious bits like remove the distributor cap and the cable to the distributor first and put them back on afterwoods to make the principle clearer.

If you need any more detail I'm afraid its time to buy a manual.

[bmcecosse]

Just make sure it's the correct type of dizzy for your engine. If the rotor arm ends up pointing the wrong way - just swap the HT leads around to suit.

[ben739]

i replaced my distributor recently, and before doing so i installed the Magnetronic illuminiton and then put the dizzy on. it's working great........touch wood. easy job and make a difference.

[Packedup]

Turn the engine till the points are just about opening on number one (take the cap off and turn the ign on - Look for a small blue spark at the points). Switch ign off, remove dizzy, fit new one with the vacuum advance at roughly the same angle as on the old one. Check the points are just opening (not just closing- I got caught out like that recently, was in too much of a rush to check things properly).

Get an old inditactor, rear lamp, whatever bulb and bits of wire, and connect it across the coil terminals. When the points are closed the bulb is lit, when they open it goes out. Line up the timing notch on the crank pulley with the correct tooth on the serated guide tacked on the timing chain cover (I have a feeling you're after 8 before and the peaks are 4 degrees, but I'm not at all sure about that so double check). With your timing lamp lit, turn the dizzy to the point where the bulb just goes out. Anti clockwise to retard, clockwise to advance. Look at the lobes on the dizzy to tell you whether you need to go backwards or forwards - Chances are if you're close with the position of the new dizzy you'll need to turn it clockwise a little to get it spot on, as if you've gone "past" the opening there's a fair few degrees backwards to turn it.

Nip up the dizzy clamp and try firing teh engine. Might be best to have run the engine before removing the old one so it's a little easier to get going this time. If it runs and sounds as it should, turn off, pop the cap and double check the timing (with the test lamp) by turning the engine clockwise and spotting when the light goes out compared to where the timing marks line up. They'll line up both for number one and number four, it really doesn't matter which is "firing" so long as the lamp goes out pretty much when the notch and correct BTDC tooth meet. If the lamp goes out before it should, slacken the clamp and turn the dizzy anticlockwise a little, if after then turn it slightly clockwise.

Turning the engine for such fine adjustment is easier with the plugs out, but that's a bit of a pain removing them, refitting to test, removing again etc so I often tun the engine backwards by hand then forwards. It might be paranoia, but when I do that I go a fair bit too far back, so when going forwards to teh timing marks I take any slack out teh timing chain that may have crept in going the wrong way.