Oil leak from behind crankshaft pulley

Post by **PaulP** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 2:53 pm

Hi All,
After inheriting my '69 Traveller that had stood still for 20 years, I took heed from the advice and have since found out that I only have 1 small patch to weld under the n/s footwell. The oil drained, new filter fitted, petrol pump re-conditioned and petrol tank changed (and the usual other service parts). The engine starts first time everytime and runs as smooth as a baby's bum... however, there is an oil leak, albeit small, from behing the crankshaft pulley. Looking on the internet at exploded diagrams it appears that there is a small rubber seal behind the crankshaft pulley and infront of the timing chaincase... is this a usual problem on MM's that have been standing for a while??...

Is it easily replaceable (front of the car off...).

Then it's just the entire brake system and a new exhaust... if I'm lucky.

Cheers

Paul

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:12 pm

Yes - easy enough to change - and inexpensive too. Biggest problem will be getting the starter dog bolt undone. Be sure to get a new gasket for the timing cover too.

Post by **PaulP** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:18 pm

Will I have to remove the timing cover to get to this seal?... the exploded diagram I was looking at gave me the impression it was in front of the cover (see link below). Or are you giving me some good advice as to change the gasket whilst I'm there??

http://www.morris-minor.co.uk/p63.htm

Thanks for the help with this!

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:27 pm

Depends which type of seal you have - old felt ring or later rubber seal. It should be the rubber seal - it could possibly be levered out and a new one carefully fitted without removing the timing cover - but I would remove the cover.

Post by **PaulP** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:38 pm

Many thanks for the ultra-fast reply!. I have all parts needed (engine gasket kit appears to be well worth the £14.50 paid!) so will be giving it a go tomorrow.

Thanks again BMC...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:57 pm

One way of undoing the starting handle dog bolt is to fit a spanner (or to be honest - a pipe wrench) on it - resting against the nearside chassis member - and jab the starter - ignition OFF of course. There is a little lock washer in there - difficult to get at - but lever it out the way if you can first.

Post by **Dominic** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:33 am

bmcecosse wrote: It should be the rubber seal - it could possibly be levered out and a new one carefully fitted without removing the timing cover -

Having performed this task recently, I would add that in my opinion it would be impossible to remove or replace the rubber type oil seals with the timing cover in place. This is because the seal is reinforced with a pressed steel core. One needs to press it home into the recess in the timing cover very firmly from the inside. I used a circular block of wood and a G cramp to force it fully home. Check the condition of the boss on the pulley too, if badly scored, it will still allow oil past the new seal!
Good luck, it's not too bad a job!

Post by **PaulP** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:40 am

Thanks Dominic, I've had a look at the seal and you are indeed correct about the seal core.

It's always good to talk to people who have done things before to get the hints and tips that will make the job run smoother!.

Thanks again.

Post by **moggydriver62** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 9:03 am

i worked at bmc dealer over here for along time
take the cover off.you will bend the cover
beating the seal in.
kenny.

Post by **PaulP** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 9:07 am

Cheers Kenny,

The decision has been firmly made and confirmed even more by your post.... No point making life difficult!... The cover will certainly be coming off!

Many thanks

Post by **Dominic** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:14 pm

Just another thought on the subject, It is very easy to damage the sharp lip on the seal, so do NOT push it on & off the pulley, just the once when fitting it, and make sure it is well lubricated. Also, don't make my mistake, and bolt the timing cover in place first. The way to proceed is to place the pulley through the seal once that is snugly bedded down in the timing cover, then fit the pulley to the crank end, and finally fit the cover. This way, there is no chance of having the oil seal and pulley boss slightly off centre to each other, thus causing premature wear to the seal. It is irritating to see drips of oil appearing after just a few hundred miles on a new oil seal......

Post by **PaulP** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:50 pm

Well, I completed the task today. I was surprised to find 2 different size bolts on the timing cover, but soon got over it.
The most difficult part of the whole operation was getting the old seal out of the timing cover.... I think my neighbours may look at me slightly dissaprovingly next time we greet should they have heard.

Whilst I was there I also changed the water pump and thermostat housing... I believe the last owner almost welded the thing on! for 3 bolts it was a nightmare to remove.
It got a little dark to be working in the end so will complete the rest of it tomorrow. (and see if it's oil-leak-less....).

One question, is it worth running engine clean through before putting a new glug of oil in??... I have been told a few different stories.

Post by **PaulP** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:52 pm

Oh, and thanks for the advice using..

i) The pipe wrench for undoing the starter nut
ii) The G-Clamp for fitting the new seal

Thanks All.. Saved time, effort and bad language to my neighbours ear 'oles.

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:59 pm

PaulP wrote:Well, I completed the task today. I was surprised to find 2 different size bolts on the timing cover, but soon got over it.

Me too

As for the bolts, yeah - and one of these days I'll work out why. Perhaps the larger ones holt the end plate to the engine, and the smaller just hold the cover on... Darn, I think I got it. The thermo housing is another charming feature of the engine. The dis-similar metals corrode themselves together. Cover the studs in grease, and it might be easier next time, or try the advice that will be posted in a minute...

Post by **bmcecosse** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:00 pm

The stat cover is often difficult - the alloy reacts with the steel studs. I usually run a drill through the cover holes to open them slightly - and smear the studs with grease or vaseline. Don't bother with engine clean - just drain the old oil off when hot

Post by **bigginger** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:04 pm

That was the advice I meant too, appeared while I was posting

Post by **PaulP** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 8:10 pm

So do you suggets running the engine with only the remaining oil and draining this prior to filling with new?.
I'll open the holes slightly tomorrow morning, it's almost the last task left to complete and will almost certainly save time next time around.

Cheers