No brake lights

[minor_hickup]

Ok I've misplaced my workshop manual, can't find it anywhere. So could someone tell me where the brake light circuit earths? Also which fuse does it use? Is it just from the switched side of the fuse box.

You see I have no brake lights, bulbs seem fine, brake light switch was replaced a while back (6 months i think). Any suggestions welcome, such as where I left the manual

[Willie]

The brake lights are fed from the fuse with the green leads on it. One of these
green leads goes to the stop light switch and the other side of the switch goes
to the brake lights via a Green/purple lead. If you turn on the ignition and
short the stop light terminals together then the stop lights should operate. If
they do then the actual switch would appear to be faulty.

[minor_hickup]

Cheers Willie, it should read in your signature "electical faults and breathing arrangement guru!"

[bigginger]

...and lots of them have been failing in under 6 months lately

[minor_hickup]

Best be up early then if its gone so I can get to ESM.

[minor_hickup]

Thanks Willie and Bigginger, it was the brake light switch. Luckily I managed to fit the new one without getting air into the system.

[maziesmymate]

Hi Guys Its Bobby from Downunder!!
I have just finished restoring the bodywork on Maizie, My wifes Datsun A12 powered 57 Morrie Coupe!!
It seems to have the original wiring, apart from some small turn sigal lamps, air hornsn and a set of instruments , hidden behind the flip down panel behind the steering wheel.
Anyway all seemed to be working fine untill this morning when after staring her up, and letting her warm up, I checked the guages, and noticed that the amp/volt guage was heading to neg when i pressed the brake pedal. On further inspection I realised the brake lights are not working! They seem to be wired into the same fuse as the indicator switch, and she blew about three fuses, one after the other, untill I put a 15 amp one in! So now all is working exept the said brake lights? I suspect a short, but if this was the case would it not continue to blow fuses?
I have no Idea where the brake light swith assembly is, and suspect this maybe faulty.
Any help advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in anvance Bobby==============

[ColinP]

Bobby,

the fuses in the orignal 2 fuse holder are: - 35A (IIRC)

so I think you're on your own with Ohm's law (2 21 watt brake lights at 12 volts is about 4 Amps - rule of thumb for fuse would make that 8 A).
Add it the indicators at the same rating - you using about 8 Amps for the two items.
I'd suggest that 15 A fuse is about right, 10 A is probably too low to allow for the voltage of 13.5 volts (battery charging voltage from regulator) and the surge of the swithing on/off.

Colin

[maziesmymate]

Thanks for the speedy reply collin! So now that I know Im using the right fuse. The next question is where is the brake light switch? And If this is a common problem, is there a place, wire, or earth that is prone to causing it??
Thanks again Collin..
Cheers Bobby=========
PS..
Where would I be able to get a scematic or simple circuit diagrame for the 1957 1000 series morrie??
Are there any you know of that are free downloadables online??

[Stig]

I'm not sure if it's the same with earlier models but (1969) the brake light switch is in a T-piece in the brake line that goes across the car under the radiator - driver's side. They do tend to fail in my experience so try pulling the wires off it and connecting them together and see if the lights come on.

There's a wiring diagram in the latest Minor Matters if that's any help - might be for the sidevalve though, can't remember offhand.