Rear Hub.
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- Minor Addict
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Rear Hub.
This morning there was a small pool of oil at side of o/s/r wheel.This rather surprised me as I had changed all oil seals about 2 months ago. Had a quick look tonight, no oil on shoes but bearing seemed loose in hub.
Presume this means new[s/hand] hub or would it be possible to use hylamar or bearing glue on bearing.
Ian.
Presume this means new[s/hand] hub or would it be possible to use hylamar or bearing glue on bearing.
Ian.
Only works with very slight size mis-match. It really won't do anything in this situation. It is just glue. If something is worn it is sometimes possible to make a repair with some of the new plastic metals - Loctite do various versions - but while maybe ok for a water pump or similar, I would NOT suggest this for anything to do with keeping the wheels on the car. If it's worn it's worn - and needs replacing.



After checking four separate hubs against old & new bearings I came to the conclusion that new bearings are made a fraction smaller than the originals, and so don't fit properly. The solution is to take a centre punch and use it to dimple all round the inner surface of the hub where the bearing fits. This raises the metal surrounding each dimple by just enough to grip the bearing properly. Remember, you only want to dimple the metal, not drive a hole right through it!
Another example of poor quality modern parts I'm afraid.
Another example of poor quality modern parts I'm afraid.

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- Minor Legend
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rear hub bearings
Assuming that you have the later type rear axle then you should note that
the outer of the hub race should protrude 0.001" to 0.004" OUTSIDE the
hub surface so that it is firmly locked in position by the half shaft flange when
it is attached. The half shaft flange is only held on by one screw, then by the
two brake drum screws and finally by the wheel nuts so for the outer of the
hub race to be loose all of these fixings must have been loose too. If you are
talking about the inner of the ball race then the above is of no interest to you
whatsoever!!
the outer of the hub race should protrude 0.001" to 0.004" OUTSIDE the
hub surface so that it is firmly locked in position by the half shaft flange when
it is attached. The half shaft flange is only held on by one screw, then by the
two brake drum screws and finally by the wheel nuts so for the outer of the
hub race to be loose all of these fixings must have been loose too. If you are
talking about the inner of the ball race then the above is of no interest to you
whatsoever!!
Willie
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- Scott
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That's not a solution, just a quick fix to get you out of troublesimmitc wrote:The solution is to take a centre punch and use it to dimple all round the inner surface of the hub where the bearing fits. This raises the metal surrounding each dimple by just enough to grip the bearing properly.

Scott
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
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[url=http://www.morrisdownunder.com/forum/index.php]Aussie Forum[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/523/bo16vy.jpg]1948 Series MM[/url]
[url=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/2484/dcp001046qp.jpg]1962 1000[/url]
[url=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9625/19705bp.jpg]1970 1000[/url]
[url=http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7259/nullabor25ns.jpg]1959 Van[/url]
[url=http://www.morrisdownunder.com/forum/index.php]Aussie Forum[/url]
Loctite is no use to take up wear that will be uneven around the rim of the bearing housing - if it's worn then it's worn - it IS useful and acceptable where there is a constant very slight clearance around new parts. It's not a cure-all, and neither is the punching - both can help to solve the problem in the right circumstances (and hands). But it is obviously better to have correctly fitting parts in the first place - if this is not possible because of tolerances on parts these days - then needs must!


