Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
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- Minor Friendly
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
Been out there today looking at this while we have rare sunshine.
As far as I can tell the relay shaft is not offset - but hard to tell unless/until I take it out.
With the adjusting rod fitted gearbox side it wont reach the clutch actuating lever - not enough sideways movement and it looks out of alignment like this. Photos below as ever...
In the default pedal position (stay plate against tx cover) the relay seems to be pointing slightly towards the back of the car - if the relay was pointing a bit forward it would give it enough room to move before fouling (with rod brake master side). I think if the current linking strips were half an inch longer it would all work.
Has anyone got photos of the linkage fitted ? or photos or where the relay arm would normally be pointing with pedal at default position?
As far as I can tell the relay shaft is not offset - but hard to tell unless/until I take it out.
With the adjusting rod fitted gearbox side it wont reach the clutch actuating lever - not enough sideways movement and it looks out of alignment like this. Photos below as ever...
In the default pedal position (stay plate against tx cover) the relay seems to be pointing slightly towards the back of the car - if the relay was pointing a bit forward it would give it enough room to move before fouling (with rod brake master side). I think if the current linking strips were half an inch longer it would all work.
Has anyone got photos of the linkage fitted ? or photos or where the relay arm would normally be pointing with pedal at default position?
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- Relay.JPG (60.4 KiB) Viewed 1872 times
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- gearboxside.JPG (92.58 KiB) Viewed 1872 times
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- IMG_20201108_113949.jpg (3.11 MiB) Viewed 1872 times
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
The rod will not reach the release arm or align as the return spring is still attached to the release arm which pulls the arm forward away from the rod.
Without the spring being in place the release arm can be pulled back so that the carbon thrust is just short of contacting the clutch cover.
You fit it all together and then fit the return spring.
Fit the bar to stop the pedal coming back too far and then adjust the linkage.
Without the spring being in place the release arm can be pulled back so that the carbon thrust is just short of contacting the clutch cover.
You fit it all together and then fit the return spring.
Fit the bar to stop the pedal coming back too far and then adjust the linkage.
Last edited by philthehill on Sun Nov 08, 2020 12:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
Thanks, I'll go and try! Was avoiding taking off that spring as its new and really difficult to fit.philthehill wrote: ↑Sun Nov 08, 2020 12:15 pm The rod will not reach the release arm or align as the return spring is still attached to the release arm which pulls the arm forward away from the rod.
You fit it all together and then fit the return spring.
Fit the bar to stop the pedal coming back too far and then adjust the linkage.
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
Fitting the spring is difficult but the return spring is the last thing you fit regarding the clutch linkage.
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
OK sprint wasn't too bad to remove - it was harder to get back off the floor afterwards. I can see why you fit spring after as it does get in the way when trying to adjust the play.
Tried without spring but it still gets nowhere near the lever even with the lever moved slightly towards the rear - rod ends up far to near the gearbox (photo). the rod would have to sit at quite an angle in the relay to make it work and that looks wrong
The position of the relay when the pedal is at default is fixed - there is no adjustment. I've added a photo to show where the relay sits when at default pedal - a bit hard to capture on a photo...
Also, even though the whole linkage is new there is still play in the peal before it moves the relay. Overall I'm not impressed with design, never had all this bother with my Cortina! I did find this thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69850&p=635380#p635380 with an interesting alternative.
Tried without spring but it still gets nowhere near the lever even with the lever moved slightly towards the rear - rod ends up far to near the gearbox (photo). the rod would have to sit at quite an angle in the relay to make it work and that looks wrong

The position of the relay when the pedal is at default is fixed - there is no adjustment. I've added a photo to show where the relay sits when at default pedal - a bit hard to capture on a photo...
Also, even though the whole linkage is new there is still play in the peal before it moves the relay. Overall I'm not impressed with design, never had all this bother with my Cortina! I did find this thread viewtopic.php?f=6&t=69850&p=635380#p635380 with an interesting alternative.
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- IMG_20201108_124828.jpg (2.78 MiB) Viewed 1864 times
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- IMG_20201108_123725.jpg (3.02 MiB) Viewed 1864 times
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
Gut feeling is that the lug at bottom of clutch pedal has been welded on at the wrong angle ....
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
The position of the lug on the bottom of the pedal will not effect the alignment of the rod.
Whilst the linkage is not the best of design I have never had any problems with fitting and aligning the mechanical linkage.
Have you assembled the chassis bearing of the relay correctly?
Sometimes you have to fit the parts and by that I mean making it fit by adjusting the parts to suit the application. I know you should not have to but if that is what it takes then do it.
Whilst the linkage is not the best of design I have never had any problems with fitting and aligning the mechanical linkage.
Have you assembled the chassis bearing of the relay correctly?
Sometimes you have to fit the parts and by that I mean making it fit by adjusting the parts to suit the application. I know you should not have to but if that is what it takes then do it.
Last edited by philthehill on Sun Nov 08, 2020 2:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
I think its assembled correctly - the relay moves smoothly backwards and forwards and there is no play in that area. Managed to add poly bush to my order so that's fitted.
Spent quite a bit of time getting chassis end of relay and bush to fit properly - wouldn't go on at all at first.
Spent quite a bit of time getting chassis end of relay and bush to fit properly - wouldn't go on at all at first.
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
I think you may well be right about the bottom lug on the clutch pedal being in the wrong position
Looking at your photos of the original pedal when it was in the car, the relay shaft looks to be in a much better position.
The only difference is the new pedal that could be causing this issue. Have you still got the old pedal to compare it with.
Phil P
Looking at your photos of the original pedal when it was in the car, the relay shaft looks to be in a much better position.
The only difference is the new pedal that could be causing this issue. Have you still got the old pedal to compare it with.
Phil P
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
Still got the old pedal but really hard to compare without taking the new one out. And That involves removing all that I've just put in including that dreaded brake pedal spring ! I'm trying out a temporary lengthened strap which seems to allow everything to operate, the only downside is that the pedal feels heavier than I would have expected. May have to go with it for the moment so I can carry on and sort out the other problems.
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
With my rose jointed clutch linkage it would probably be easier to fit.
Regards
Declan
Regards
Declan
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- Installed_with_extension_1.JPG (299.94 KiB) Viewed 1793 times
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- Installed_HD_2.JPG (216 KiB) Viewed 1793 times
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- Clutch_rose_joint_kit_1.jpg (103.79 KiB) Viewed 1793 times
Regards
Declan
Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
A picture of mine as fitted and been working fine, may be of some help?
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Re: Cross-member bolts. (and... Brake Master Cylinder)
Thanks mattyguk1 ! That's useful to be able to compare (photo).
Declan can you pm me more details? The relay to clutch lever part could be very interesting.
Declan can you pm me more details? The relay to clutch lever part could be very interesting.
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- ClutchComparison.JPG (153.95 KiB) Viewed 1755 times
Helping my son with his Morris Minor 1970 Panda Car Replica (both club members)