Morris Minor Owners Club

Took my ‘Woody” to its first proper show at Tatton Park today.

Drove faultlessly 50 miles there and 50 miles home. Even queueing in the hot sun was no problem. Had lots of compliments and several chats, a very relaxed day indeed.

Next two days may be different in my other toys…

No wonder you can’t get your head around it, the guy in the linked Youtube clip is doing it wrong. He has the basics, but you need two pieces of thin string or fishing line mounted beyond the car bumpers pulled very tight, they need to be parallel to each other and the car. When setting it up it he...

Why would you have an error? If you can't accurately measure parallel to rear you'll struggle to accurately measure the front. If you set tracking on fronts only then you are setting toe in or toe out but not relative to the drive axle. The only truly accurate system is the lazer type which measure...

Sort of hard to explain but the chap in the vid sets the string parallel to the rear wheel rim by measuring. Even an error of 0.5mm would be 2.3mm when projected to the front wheel so how car an accurate measurement be obtained?

Just been watching a video of a chap setting the toe-in of his Morris with a stretched piece of string. I’ve read about this on here a few times too. One thing has always concerned about this method. If the datum is set by measuring the distance from the string to the rear wheel and error of 0.5mm i...

No one has mentioned the key property of grip. I’m fortunate in being able to run three ‘classic’ cars at any one time and change at least one of them every 2-3 years. I’m no stranger to the tyre conundrum, they age faster than they wear so should they be replaced at 10 years even if they still look...

Or someone’s idea of good could be as good as mine currently is. Used ones go for £30-40. They could be as good as my current one.

Well if you’re going to the trouble of fitting a new one I’d fit a good one! That’s sort of my point. Many so called ‘Lucas’ parts are cheaply manufactured junk and fail readily. And ‘Made in England’ is certainly not the mark of quality it once was or indeed any guarantee of where it was actually ...

Hi. It’s pretty worn, I’ve ‘reconditioned’ it twice but it’s quite floppy and sometimes overshoots the contacts. It works but you have to get it just right.

My indicator stalk is a little temperamental and I’m considering a replacement

Are the eBay cheapos at £58 any good. The alternatives are £40 more and may well be the same quality.

Thanks

I’ve noticed a little drip on the diff drain plug and a small telltale mark on the floor underneath.

Haven’t investigated yet but I’m assuming it’s more likely the oil seal that’s leaking than the drain plug?

That looks interesting to replace!

E5 for me. Runs better, more power and more MPG.

Problem solved Oddly the adjustment plate (which I’ve never touched) was about 1/4 inch away from the chassis. Slackening off the torsion bar and adjustment plate nuts and it sprang back into position. Lowering one side by about half an inch. On the other side the problem was more self inflicted! Wh...

Thanks again for the above. My starting point is simply to decide if one side is too high or the other too low.

The hand and tyre method may well help decide. I can only work on one side os the car at a time so determining which side to adjust is my first step.

Cheers

Thanks for the reply Phil, I spotted that but it’s not the easiest thing for a simple chap with a tape measure to determine.

As a guide there must be an easier method to get a ball park figure, surely?

Noticed my traveller has one side higher than the other by about an inch (not measured acutely yet)

But which side is incorrect?

I can’t find any guide measurements to compare with. So are there any guides say from floor to wheel arch or hub centre to wheel arch?

Ta

Here’s mine on our DiD run to Plas Newedd, Llangollen

Is there any possibility that coolant could be getting into the combustion chamber? That tends to make plugs look like they are running lean.

When I used to fly model aircraft we regularly used a product called Lumiweld for repairing cast aluminium crankcases. Always worked very well as long as the instructions are followed. Costs about £20 these days from Frost. I would be happy to use it to repair an alternator flange like you describe....

I started a thread like this on another forum a few years ago (not MM related). Discussion got a bit heated which wasn't the intention but some interesting info came out of the various replies. Given a couple of other threads on here I thought it might be worth a try, try not to shoot me down in fla...