Morris Minor Owners Club

Not sure if I should be irritated by the responses so far, or thankful. I had thought as members of the same club we a here to support each other in a common interest, not point our perceived flaws and hindsight responses for things considered as mistakes by others. Especialy as none of us can offer...

The Bores were honed, oil 20/50, new oil pump, and crank within tolerance. The only part I overlooked was the oil pressure relief valve on the rebuild, due to having a tight time frame to get the engine built. The engine was bought out of a car so did not hear or see it running, or know its milage, ...

The pressure was holding during start up and idle, it drops under load and then stays low. The bearings should be fine, they are new and have only run for around 170 miles max. it hasn't been run for any period of time with no oil in it, even with the pressure issue from today, the oil level is stil...

Haven't checked the relief valve, its still in position and shows no sign of oil escaping through it.

I'm guessing it would mean pulling it out to fully check it?

Further update, I just arrived home, and there is a leak, it looks to be from either the front plate and block (as first guessed) or the timing cover to front plate. But surely as the leak dosen't look substantial it shouldn't drop the pressure so quickly.

Well filled the engine ran it at idle for about 20 mins only a few drops from it. Was holding a steady 20lbs during this time. Took it for a run, in the space of about 3 miles oil pressure was dropping. Then idle was around 15lbs at 50mph was down to 35/40lbs. No sign of a leak this time. And the di...

The plug looks intact, most of the oil seemed to be coming from the other side. I did find on draining the sump today that the bolt was loose, so loose I could undo it by hand, so have tightened with a new washer. I have ado cleaned the engine bay, and an ready to refil and check tomorrow exegeses i...

The engine was stripped completely and fully rebuilt, with original size (new) pistons and rings, as well as a full set of bearings gaskets and seals. So was a total rebuild. It has new silcone breather hoses going from the front breather to the rocker cover and carb, which a vented oil filler cap. ...

Hi all, I have just finished the rebuild of my midget 1275 and got it in the car, on the run home, I got from Bristol to reading with no problems, then the oil pressure started to drop, and I pulled over, the engine had developed a leak that looks like from behind the front engine plate, that is spi...

Well it's been a while since I last posted on this thread. I have tried a few options with eBay purchases, all have been a total failure, dremiling the the letters didn't work. And the engraver I spoke to was not vey helpful. I think I would have to find a better engraver if I was to go that route. ...

Hi guys after many months of chasing the issue I found it to be the inline fuse holder was causing the problem as it was not pushing the current through to the screen from the was switch/ relay. Replaced it and have been fine since.

Thanks for the help.

Andy

Well all gaps set, with gauges, and tried the petrol trick, still nothing. Then a calamity of two studs snapping, has lead to the head being whipped off again! and me wishing I had not removed the 1098 head how ever bad it was running! I had managed a new top speed record of 80mph but had drop to an...

Okay well after filing down the water pump, and putting the standard 12g940 head on (measured by test building without a gasket and using the plastacine on the valves trick) I have an engine that turns over by hand its a bit resistant on tdc I'm guessing this is down to compression as this only real...

Thanks, looks like I'm going to be tool shopping again!

Thanks will use the standard head, how do you measure clearance? As all books say I need to cut pockets into the block for this head to work on a 948.

Hi again, sorry have not replied in a while, things have been hectic. I have got a 12g940 head, that is ported and polished and an 11 stud layout, and another that I think is standard, tried test fitting the ported head today, and am I right in saying that all the value seats need to be ground down ...

Hi guys, im only using the 1098 head as my 948 head has warped and is no use at the moment. And i has planned a engine swap so dont want to spend money on repairs to the 948 head, The 1098 head is also on loan so I can not skim or make any permeant adjustments to it. My eventual plan is to replace t...

I've fitted an aaa needle, and although only roughly tuned, it's running much much better, still need go do some playing wit it, but for no what will have to wait as it's MOT time, and I have a nasty looking sill to deal with. But I will keep you posted on what happens when I get back to the carb, b...

I would but these are the parts I have, as the old manifold died prematurely. There are moments when it runs wonderfully, but then others when it seems possessed. Im hoping it's just a case of finding the right needle now, or having a tuner work their dark and mystic arts on the current set up, it i...

Okay I tried a AAR needle and it was better but still awful, have filed it down a bit, which made an improvement, but still not great. The car is more drivable. I'm pretty sure that a AAA needle will be too extreme, but could give it ago when my supplier has one in stock. Does anyone have any other ...