Morris Minor Owners Club

Jusrt in the middle of sorting a few niggly ignition problems on my Traveller - 1098.

Does anybody know the best way to test a Condenser and a coil - and what are the correct resistance values etc?

Thanking you


gppj25

You're right DAVIDM - patience is the key. I started from scratch again. Used protective tape where needed. I then finger-tightened just one bolt at top and bottom and closed the door softly pushing the door home. Checked and adjusted the striker plates etc and gently opened the door wide. Tightend ...

I've just removed the front n/s door for repaint etc and can't get the door aligned correctly. Anybody have any useful tips on refitting/realigning the door?
Stupidly, I've overpainted the marks I'd made on the pillar/hinges before removal.

Cheers

Thanks for the info bmcecosse - appreciate it.

Regards

Slight mistake here - for 2 above I meant distance between the posts, not the doors.

Thanks

!967 Traveller. Not convinced that I have the frame alignment/measurements as good as they could be. Can anyone tell me the exact measurements of the following: 1. The distance between the L/H and R/H rear posts measured at the base of the rear doors. 2. The distance between the L/H and R/H doors me...

Catsoup, hello to you. I would agree with bmcecosse. Unless you are a real ace with woodwork (and I am not) I reckon you really need to take most of the side off. If it's the forward post you mean i.e the one that abuts the BPost then that in turn is jointed to the Top rail, the waist rail, the rail...

Logdog and co - you seem well versed in this process. I am refitting my traveller doors and hinges - any hints please on how I should fit the flat seal between the rear doors. I don't understand how the rubber is fiited in relation to the little metal plates at the top of the door. Plus how much of ...

Have just stripped off one side of my Traveller wood and intend fitting one complete side - then maybe fit the other in a few months time, due to money etc. What method do you recommend for sealing the Front Pillar to the B-Post? Secondly, I have stripped off half of the guttering and as most people...

Has anyone out there had any recent experience of a workshop completely renewing their M1000 Traveller woodwork for them. I am interested in the price charged and the quality of their work. I am in South Wales but will travel afield if I have to. Any advice/comments appreciated. Oh and Happy Christm...

Hoining was completed before rebuild. Thanks again for all of your advice.

Happy Christmas to all.

Forgot to mention that I renewed the piston rings as well.

Cheers

I think you're absolutely right.
However, I'm glad that I've been able to renew the bronze bush and the entire clutch. How many miles do you reckon are required to run in these engines after reground crank, new oil pump, bearings etc?

Cheers

The clutch cover/housing seemd to be out of true - particularly where it would meet the thrust bearing. That's when I thought, sod it, I better renew the whole clutch assembly. Perhaps I hadn't tightened it the correct manner - I'm not so sure now.

Cheers

I need to renew 1x LH Rear Pillar Post, 1 x LH Waist Rail, 1 x Block (Waist Rail to Wheel Arch). Also thinking of renewing Inner and Outer Window channels to reduce/solve leaks etc. How difficult/possible is this without having to go the whole hog and remove roof etc. I am OK with mechanics and not ...

Pulled the engine out - as you say, much easier than trying to drop the gearbox. Found the small bronze bush in the flywheel/crankshaft falling to bits with remnants all over the housing. Removed it and replaced with a new one (cost all of 80p + VAT). Looked again at the clutch plate and the thrust ...

Exactly what I was thinking.
I'll let you know where I've fouled up when I've pulled the engine.

Cheers

Hopefull find out shortly - have started stripping it down and will remove the engine this week.
Thanks for the comments.

Yes, I had about 1". Have tried adjusting it one way and then the other, but no joy.
Still squeals like crazy as soon as any gear is engaged when the engine is running and the clutch is released ...

I suspect that you're right. Reground crankshaft, bigends, mains, new oil pump. Decoked head, reground valves, new valve springs. The engine runs fine - about 75psi on first start up and she sounds just great. The bronze bush was in the crankshaft and appeared OK - I cleaned it out but didn't renew ...