Morris Minor Owners Club

Hello all, Time to fit the new hood to the restored convertible. Trouble is the original was in such a state that most of the hood, rail coverings and press-studs had gone, so I'm at a bit of a loss where the hood, and more problemmatically the hood cover, fittings go. I know there is a larger 'lift...

Grey it is!
Thanks
Will post the outcome in due course.
Mick

I have bought a full interior trim kit from Newton Commercial for a Birch Grey (light grey) convertible I'm restoring. I have gone for a maroon interior with grey piping on the seat covers. (as per original) Turns out Newton Commercial (and ESM /Bull Motif I think) don't make a maroon carpet set, an...

Just to complete the story have just fitted the inserts again - this time to the '59 convertible I'm restoring. Got the correct windscreen rubber from Bull Motif and fitted as described in my earlier post - i.e., install the screen and rubber as usual. Then apply sealer into the gap between rubber a...

What's with all this confusion and denial - it is possible to fit the original metal inserts to new windscreen rubbers (EXT103) after the rubbers have been fitted to the car. I have done it twice using the method described above and will shortly do it again. It is not easy, but nor is it impossible....

Not sure, but I think it's possible to fit the engine mounts in the wrong way round and so move the engine/box too far in one direction. Have you fitted the propshaft yet because this will tell if you've got it right. Also there is a mounting for the pedal shaft on both chassis legs so you should be...

Sorry just to be clear both the ones I fitted were to replacement windscreen rubbers bought from ESM/Bull Motif. Never been able to get a screen out without cutting the original rubber myself.

Not saying it's easy, just it can be done.

Mick

I beg to differ - it is possible to fit the original two piece metal strips to the 'old style' windscreen rubbers. I posted the following as a 'review' to the part (EXT 103) when I first figured out a way to do it 2 years ago. Have successfully refitted the metal insert. First off apply lots of sili...

Yeah, tried a few keys, but no luck. Will also try my luck at lock-picking - might even take it down the local locksmith - before I go 'nuclear' and drill it into bits. I'm a bit concerned it will not be obvious what's lock barrel and what's not until it's too late.

Any more tips/ideas?

Thanks
Mick

Hello all, Have a lovely chrome secondhand boot lock to fit to the latest restoration, but it is locked and hence I can see no way to get to the second, 'inner' pin that needs to be drifted out to get the barrel out. Also in the past the square shaft has been changed so there is no number stamped on...

I've done two travellers and never used any glue - you need a stapler, a tool type, not one for your letters! All the contact points are into woodwork, or you use the side wood panels to finish the outer edges. Work from the front and the middle, and in warm weather (unlikely now!) if you can.[frame...

I doubt your head gasket has gone, but if it has it is not the end of the world. Replacing it is a few hours work with the manual to hand. If you are not confident to do it yourself then any small local garage should be willing and able for a reasonable sum. Also if you are losing water that quickly...

Obviously could be many things (but not the low oil level for sure!), but normally engine running problems that seem to fix themselves (at least temporarily) are usually either electrical or fuel related. So I'd take the distributor cover off and give the contacts and inside of the cover a spray wit...

..... and thanks bmecosse for another prompt, useful .... and in this case .... very convenient (for me) reply.

Mick

Hello all - need some clarification please on two topics relating the engine backplate (between engine and flywheel) I am restoring a Morris 1000 convertible from a wreck, and she is soon to receive her newly recon'd 1098 engine and gearbox. I find in my store of parts two different backplates - one...

Yes it is very feasible, and once you start I think you'll find it will be obvious what the problem is. The advantage is that things of that era were assembled by people, not robots, and were designed to be taken apart by people as well! There are a few fiddly bits, and it's a good idea to take a fe...

East Surrey Minors (Google ESM) sell them, as do several others. I'd go for the inertia reel ones (ACC104 ESM part no), that are Securon 500/45 types I think. The inertia reel has to be mounted so the seat belt goes out vertically, so you fit them to an existing mounting at the base of the B post (y...

Yep, looks OK. Bit of surface rust because it's been sat outside all winter, but the end you want is ok and the union/olive are in good condition. Lost track in the thread exactly who it is that wants it (marcusthemoose??), so whoever it is, if they could pm me asap with the address and how much pip...

I have an old fuel pipe with the end you want I think from one of my three restorations. Can't remember the condition exactly but I'll have a look tomorrow and see if it's serviceable. If it is then I'll post a reply am tomorrow. How much pipe would you like me to leave on the end for you to connect...

Just to complete the story - fitted the replacement alternator yesterday and all returned to normal behaviour.