Morris Minor Owners Club

Any chance of pasting a copy of the message details, haven't had anything like this from them myself and renewal is coming up soon... Important Update Regarding Our Partnership with the MMOC Hi there, We wanted to get in touch personally to share an update about our relationship with the Morris Min...

They just messaged me that they've no longer got a partnership with mmoc...interesting, I suppose they've got too inflexible or something? Been fairly happy with them myself but my car only has a few mods (at the moment ).

Offending widget, the niblet on the end broke off, doesn't look very strong, perhaps lock was forced. Robbed one off of another lock to fix things but I think it could be repaired with a hole drilled through and M3 steel bar super glued in there, something like that

Thanks for your interest. In the end I found out what I think is the correct method. If you compress the spring, the ends (ears) of it cross each other so can be 'locked up' by putting one behind the other and then using a flat ended screwdriver to unlock it...it then expands nicely into place. The ...

Rebuilding locks on my 1969 tourer inc. new cylinders (currently have 3 different keys), passenger lock had stopped working and I've got to the bottom of that (little protrusion on an internal part that rotates and operated the steel locking piston had broken off). Have got another out of a scrap lo...

I'm just finishing off putting in a lower repair section in the hinge panel, proved to be a bit of a job as the flitch had fair bit of tin worm, have left the cover plate off while I try and get things lined up. Anything I should watch for, the thing that concerns me a bit is the line up of the lowe...

Found this on a tuning forum: Re: Negative Crankcase Pressure 10 years ago by pixelsmithusa San Francisco, USA USA The large port connection on the manifold will be too much if not used with the original Smiths PCV. How this is all plumbed also depends on which carbs you are using. If you are settin...

I've started trying to convert my 1969 convertible to the PCV breather set up, finally found a good unit with the 'fingers', but I just read an article that stated that the restrictor diameters are fairly crucial...5/32 breather in the filler cap, elbow restrictor on the tappet chest cover, unknown ...

It's a bit of an experiment really...with quite a high chance of there being no further improvement - after all it's an emissions improvement system. Wouldn't bother myself.

MidnightMechanic wrote: ↑Sun Sep 15, 2024 4:29 pm Just remember, you do you and have a blast along the way!

Dear chap, I successfully braze welded a pin hole in my petrol tank in July, that's hopefully the closest I'll get to "having a blast" anytime soon (at my age)

Claras classic convoy - she's got a moggie
https://www.shropshirelive.com/features ... ic-convoy/

this was an interesting one featuring breathing - 1st prize for sophistication? :D MMT1968 Minor Friendly Posts: 69 Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2023 8:20 pm Location: Germany MMOC Member: No Contact: Contact MMT1968 Re: Crank rear oil seal Post by MMT1968 » Fri Aug 16, 2024 7:35 pm As many others I had the ...

There are some interesting posts if you search on pcv breathing system (some thing like positive crank ventilation I think) and some engine (minis?) had a pcv valve...quite rare now but mini spares does one at 75 squid Some rate it as the bees knees of crankcase breathing and oil control...

So, if the original returning scroll is in a useful shape try to keep it and live with a few drops of oil under the car. That’s easier than having to face all the problems with a lip seal conversion kit. After all this training I can pull the engine out in 1 hour now and putting it back in needs ju...

myoldjalopy wrote: ↑Fri Aug 16, 2024 5:51 pm Dizzy Doc - same one been going good for several years now - tens of thousands of miles.

Sounds promising, I'll give them a try.

olonas wrote: ↑Fri Aug 16, 2024 4:44 pm Joseph Lucas was and still is, possibly unfairly, known as "The Prince of Darkness".

unclealec wrote: ↑Fri Aug 16, 2024 9:29 am I don't see why there would be a need to replace an original rotor arm.

The one I've got is quite badly burnt on the top, but not badly pitted so I'll try cleaning it up with metal polish. It's a better shape than the new one

Anybody had a new rotor looking like this? Shape of the top is all wrong, with a bite taken out of it. Tempted to see if I can do better myself, I've got some copper sheet.

Hi, I looked into this recently - CJ autos Heywood do a roll over jig that you can leave the engine etc in...seems to be popular. Rolls car onto it's side. There's another company that do similar as a home welded kit...don't recommend this unless you're a pro welder 😁 Then there are rotisserie jigs ...