Morris Minor Owners Club

Jasond wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2026 4:38 pm Hi, is the engine still for sale?
Thanks

Yes it is

Jasond wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2026 4:38 pm Hi, is the engine still for sale?
Thanks

The engine is still available if you’re still interested.

As well all know, the performance of our standard headlights are not exactly awe inspiring. I just thought I'd share a few things that I have discovered recently. Probably most people would know this but it was new to me even as a very long term owner. My headlights have never been great. As a 1969...

Yes it is if you need more information please ask
Cheers Stewart

This is the engine taken out of my 1967 traveller 3 months ago. It was running fine but she was a little incontinent and was starting to burn a little oil. It wasn’t smoky but I think it might have been burning a little. I replaced it with an old engine I had got completely rebuilt because I didn’t ...

Make sure the water is not trickling from the bypass hose or the bypass stub pipe that threads into the head. It is possible for it to leak from there but end up near the engine number plate. I had this issue and it was rather annoying. It was caused by a bypass stub pipe that had an incorrect (but...

I have what appears to be exactly the same problem. I fitted a new copper faced gasket to newly machined block and head and torqued to 40 lbs (using a Halfords torque wrench). I filled with water and was just getting ready to fill with oil when I noticed a damp area where the engine number is fixed....

I have just put a set on of that size from Blockleys and they appear to be working fine on my 1967 Traveller.

I have not fitted a spin on oil filter and I have the original but I know that the union of the oil pipe to the filter head is a taper thread. It should seal without any need for PTFE tape. My experience of similar microbore plumbing fittings at home tells me that if there is any stress on the pipe...

I’m hoping one of you guys can help. I have installed a spin on oil filter head but I’m having a struggle sealing the joint with the copper feed pipe coming off the crankcase. Has anyone got a magic solution please? I’ve used blue hylomer on the pipe joints but that’s not worked and tried plumbers p...

King Kenny wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 7:23 pm I had a similar problem with my ss exhaust. The new ss pipe is thinner than the old mild steel pipes. I took the clamp apart and put a run of weld where the ss pipe fits to give it a firmer fit. That cured my problem.

Interesting to have a look at that thank you

The extra bracket is not a factory fitted item but is a welcome addition to exhaust security. You can easily make up a support bracket which fits between the exhaust pipe and bell housing bolt. All you need is a clamp bracket that will fit the exhaust pipe and a strip of flat metal to go between th...

I have a 1967 Traveller with a 1098. It has a stainless exhaust and I am constantly getting exhaust leakage from the joint with the manifold. It’s not the noise but the gases getting into the cabin that bother me. I have put a cast bracket on to give it more welly but still it leaks after a few bump...

Thanks for the info and following advice from this forum, I have just ordered a new fuse board because on Sunday coming back from the Morris Registers doo at Thornley Park it stopped three times. However it was nothing to do with the electrics it was the fuel pump and a loose connection which was qu...

Thanks for advice re changing the fuse board. My Traveller is 1968 so has the three fuses. Two 35amp in fuse board and one inline.

Thanks for replies guys all were useful but explaining about resistance I think has identified what may well be the problem. I’ve got it back having disconnected all the feeds and checking voltage and changing fuses in and out, which I think may have cleaned the contacts in the fuse holder a little....

I hope for help with this I’m not good on electrics. The problem is whilst driving the car I lost ignition fed elements. Indicators, wipers, brake lights, fuel gauge etc. However I can start and run the car and the ignition light goes out so assuming Dynamo is charging. The lights are all ok as fed ...

As I said previously have you tested your compression tester before doing any engine work? Or borrow another and repeat test In 50 years plus of working on engines, with such little variance there's nothing wrong. I've never seen a defect or wear that's identical on all 4 cylinders. Some manufactur...

Hi guys and thanks for your posts. I have repeated the compression tests on the engine when fully warmed up. First just test all cylinders and still they come out consistently low around 110. I then placed a squirt of 20/50 and tested again with only a very slight change of about 10 psi so consisten...

Sorry guys I’m new to this and posted in the wrong area. I think the technical section would have been more appropriate. Also since finding that section there are a few posts which include compression, soI’m now fairly convinced mine are very low so investigations will be necessary.