Morris Minor Owners Club

svenedin wrote: ↑Wed Apr 23, 2025 8:05 am Well done. There’s no great torque required on the thermostat studs. They often leak where the stud screws into the head so some thread sealant is a good idea anyway.

Stephen

Thank you. That's all reassuring!

Hello again :) I was able to tap the stud hole reasonably successfully. It seems a bit looser than the others. I suspect in the process of drilling out the stud I’ve taken the tops of the threads off (if that makes sense?). I can however do up the stud tight so hopefully it’s okay. I guess there’s a...

Yes but you need to be careful otherwise you could end up with no thread or a double thread. As I said above if you can see a thread to use as a start for the tap so much the better. You could if you wanted to put a repair thread (helicoil) insert into the hole. You will need a special size drill a...

Hello, me again. So, I've drilled the stud about as much as I can without it impacting the threads (I think). The remains of the stud seem to be holding on for dear life as though it's become fused to the head. Would running something like https://amzn.eu/d/giBSYnz down the hold clear out all the st...

This is all very useful, thank you!

I will continue on my drilling path, and see what happens. One of my drill bits just fits down the other holes, so hopefully that will be the key

Hello all, I’ve been taking my (spare) head apart, and unfortunately I managed to snap a thermostat stud just below the surface after successfully doing battle with the thermostat itself. I’ve tried using a left handed drill bit to encourage it to rotate out. I’ve also tried a ‘stud extractor’… but ...

Is it possible to tell from a photo whether valve seats have been hardenened? I'd guess that they have been due to the ring and slight lip I can see in the photos. Doesn't look bad at all. A tip I saw for testing the head and/or just making it shiny is to push it back and forth over fine sandpaper ...

Hello everyone, As the weather has improved (and the garage isn’t Baltic) I’ve started to take some bits of pieces off my spare engine. Unfortunately, removing the thermostat housing proved as difficult as everyone says, so it came apart in a thousand pieces showering everything in metallic particle...

I also bought parts off the emigrating person. I bought a rear axle casing (very good) and a bare 1098cc block to rebuild using 948cc crankshaft (acceptable for my needs). All I would suggest is that you strip the engine down completely and examine all of the parts, journals, pistons etc and make a...

Hello everyone, Some may recall, but toward the end of last year I picked up a second hand engine as a slow burn project. My current engine has been smoking and the compression figures suggested some remedial work was possibly coming down the track. I do very few miles and it's just a hobby car so n...

Thanks is for the advice everyone. I hired a van in the end, and I’m glad I did. Much easier than the back of a car, I’d imagine!

The block was bloody heavy. As much as it’s possible for two people to lift it was very awkward.

I was actually thinking about this myself today. I was on the phone to an engine rebuilder and I was asking what he thought about transporting a complete 1098 in my Audi estate car. I estimated that a complete 1098 weighs about 90Kg and he said this is correct. I am going to use an engine crane to ...

Hello, Apropos of my recent post in mechanical ( https://board.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=77916 ), I’ve bought a partially built engine. My question is, how possible is for two people to lift an engine block to manoeuvre it into a car/van? This is the engine in question, to give you an idea of what...

Could the engine number not be transferred in that case? It feels like it shouldn’t be allowed.

My engine burns oil and leaks oil. It has good and consistent compression (170 psi all cylinders). I think perhaps oil control rings. The oil consumption is unsustainable at 1 Imperial pint per 100 miles so on a round trip to Germany of 1,000 miles it was rather expensive in oil. I have no real exp...

I would suggest it is worth a punt. The seller is a retired motor engineer and having talked with him I would say that what has been done to the 1098cc engine will have been done well. The axle I bought had been well prepared and the shiny surfaces coated in grease so well pleased with that purchas...

Well you now know the compressions for each cylinder. Well done. :tu1: Unless you are prepared to strip and overhaul the engine I would still run the engine with the hotter plugs until you are ready to carry out an overhaul or replace the engine with a good known S/H unit or better. Here is an engi...

Hello again, Good news and bad news. The good news is I’ve added compression testing as a string to my bow :D Another tool in the arsenal! The bad news is the results… My readings were as follows: Cylinder 1 Dry: 155 Wet: 187.5 Cylinder 2 Dry: 150 Wet: 170 Cylinder 3 Dry: 137.5 Wet: 155 Cylinder 4 D...

I wrote what I would do. PTH could also be giving the better advice in this instance. I have been taking engines apart since before my teens. I’m now in my 76th year. I started with motor cycles and progressed to cars in my early 20s. My brother and I usually had a spare engine to swap in if one ne...

I would be investigating that cylinder. Starting with a dry and wet compression test, maybe a pressure leakage check. Head removal might then indicate a remedy, depending on what is found. That cylinder may be badly worn, compared to the others or it might just be a case of re-ringing that piston. ...