Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi All/Phil My saga continues, or is it just my lack of understanding! I have measured things up and am a little confused as to how the bearing goes in. IMG_6869.jpeg IMG_6871.jpeg I hope the sketch is clear, it is approximately to scale. I removed the old roller bearing from location 4. The roller ...

Thanks Phil When I pulled the old one out it was in the inner part of the counterbore - that is likely why it was destroyed and could be due to the wrong back plate? I will get another and maybe place on the gearbox shaft and use that to push it in, rather than trying to hammer it in before mounting...

Hi All

I forgot to ask, should the engine back plate be painted - engine green, or something else?

Regards
David

Hi Phil Thanks, and I have that workshop manual in the post coming my way “The new roller spigot bush will fit into the end of the crankshaft - it is supposed to be tight. The rear end of the spigot spigot bush/roller should be level with the rear face of the crankshaft counterbore. Make sure that t...

Hi All The Dremel worked a treat, managed to grind the outer race so it was so thin that a small push with a screw driver broke it and I could get it out. I don’t think i even did any damage to the bearing seat either - but that said, there was plenty of damage from before. Now I have a small questi...

Hi All

Thanks Phil, seems like the perfect excuse to purchase a new tool - never had a decent Dremel!

Regards
David

Hi Phil Thanks for the links, will see what I can do. I got the top of the seal apart - it was stuck together with some form of silicon sealant, I needed to force a blade between the two parts to separate them. I have a few other questions if you don't mind? 1. How do I remove the roller bearing out...

Thanks all I think I have it sorted in my head now! The video shows a kit very similar to the one I have with the lower half of the seal secured to the top half by two long thin allen screws. The bottom half is not secured to the back plate - there are only the three large allen screws which secure ...

Hi Kevin Thanks for the reply I have got the three allen screws out, but cannot get the upper half of the seal up and over the end of the crankshaft, and the oil pump cover stops me from rotating it off. I did remove the sump completely, but that did not help much either. I just cant work out how it...

Hi All Trying to sort out the starter motor woes, I am looking to change my engine back plate to the correct one. I have pulled the gear box, nice and easy, it looks like whoever fitted was a great believer in silicon as a sealant as it is everywhere (including the sump). There was no sump gasket, j...

Hi All So I have the engine and gearbox out and I think I have discovered why the bendix was chewed up on the new starter motor. I am now retired, but in my previous oil field life this would have been classed as a "group 7" failure, or equipment not at fault - or human error! It looks lik...

Thanks Phil Is this what I need? https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine-c14/modifications-engine-c69/backplate-for-1275cc-engine-minor-gearbox-new-p830099 and https://www.morrisminorspares.com/engine-c14/ohv-engine-c16/gasket-back-plate-to-block-p830240 I am waiting on an engine lift, but will get...

Hi All Sorry, bit late to this thread, but a question related. I have just redone all the rubbers around my windows, not a nice job, but was quite pleased with the fit of most of the seals/rubbers etc. I went for the fluffy seal inside the window and the later plastic wipe seals on the outside as th...

Hi Thanks Phil, very helpful information. I had a look today - the good news is that the starter ring does not seem to badly damaged, main damage seems to be on the bendix cog. However, it seems that I have a 5/32" thick pressed steel engine backplate - see photo. I cannot find any markings on ...

All Thanks for your input. I really don't know about the combination I have as was fitted by the PO. I know the engine is an A+, and the gearbox seems like a standard 1098 box with synchro on 1st (well none on second either any more). I have a replacement box ready to go in - looks like I have to ge...

Hi All Phil, thanks for the comments. Maybe, I was not clear, the new starter does not work on or off the car, so it seems like a new one is in order. Somehow I doubt a 3 year old one would still be covered. I am still wondering why the cogs are messed up, and what I did wrong and need to think abou...

Hi All An update on the starter motor issue - the new one has failed! I turned the car over with no choke, just to get the oil and fuel moving (mechanical fuel pump), no issues. Then I went to start the car with the choke pulled out and "clunk" - no starter motion. I tried rocking the car ...

Hi Phil As always a really good solution. I did manage to get it in the space using 2 of the ESM supplied T pieces (the first one they sent was missing a thread in one of the holes, they were really good in sending a replacement. I tapped the unthreaded hole and plugged it with a bolt and o ring. I ...

Hi All I have searched the archive, but don’t quite find how to solve my problem! Any ideas what I need to add a pressure gauge here? I have a kit from ESM, my old pressure switch seems to have a straight thread. The T piece screwed in in the photo has a tapered thread but seems to fit very well. On...

Thanks All Just a few answers ... The rubber strip allong the bottom is just an extra bit of door seal that was put there by the PO. I guess with the lower seal, it is not really needed and does stop the door closing a bit - while adjusting I removed it. What is supposed to cover that seam. History ...