Morris Minor Owners Club

I tried slackening the nuts on the end of the steady bar, which has improved the vibration, but not resolved it. I'm beginning to wish I'd the the darn thing unwelded! Here's a photo of the bar. Does anyone see a problem with the positioning?<br> http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1235209474_43 <br>

Update from the topic starter-I found that slackening the steady bar had a marginal effect on the shudder, but it still occurs at low revs when the clutch pedal is depressed. Wasn't this the reason the bar was introduced in the first place? Also, did you think it could be due to the grommets being w...

Welded the broken off bit of the engine steady back onto the bulkhead today. Now the car judders at low revs. Could I have made the steady too tight?

reversed leads on fuel pump and reversed polarity on dynamo and all seems fine now. No more flashing!

If you want to make sure your car is correctly polarised to positive earth, do you attach the wire to to the negative terminal on the battery, and then to the dynamo?

sorry that should read "with each click.."

when I turn the fan, the belt doesn't move, the fan slips underneath. Perhaps too tight? But back to the ignition light, the battery was definitely part of the problem, as it started straight off from the jumper leads, but the red light is still on and pulsated in unison with each clip from the fuel...

Hi Guys, thanks for the quick replies.
Concerning the fan belt, how tight should it be? I can barely turn the fan/dynamo as it is.

A relative novice asks: The problems began with the ignition light coming on 2 weeks ago on by 1970 2 door. Fitted a new dynamo and all seemed ok, then starting problems occurred. Engine turned over but wouldn't start. Found fuel pump wasn't clicking so my son replaced that. He was driving yesterday...