Morris Minor Owners Club

If that's on your pickup it is non original so could be anything.

Regards John

That's my theory out the window. So if I type after the quote what happens It appears after the shaded quote :tu1: It seems to have fixed itself or been fixed.... I thought it was user error by CMG. I can see Berni's post above does show the new text in the shaded area, that could be because the qu...

I have a similar wheelnut wrench, but it's a 90degree bend, not a spinner type. The hubcap removal end is useless and as mentioned risks damaging the wheel's paint. I doubt a plastic trim removal tool will be strong enough. I made a hubcap removal "tool" from a piece of flat bar steel ben...

A couple in this thread are no longer with us, IslipMinor has also passed away, another knowledgable chap.
I’ve never seen a flasher unit with a bulb attached, could you post a photo please, we like photos

Regards John

My 1970 pickup tie plates are original and have no cut out on the near side.
The tie plates were never spot welded to the chassis rails.
If the tie plates are original the near side one should still have the Nuffield Metal Products plate attached.

Regards John

It should work, a few things to check, the modified switch mount might have limited the switch travel, join the two wires on the switch together to see if the pump starts, if it does then the switch needs investigating. If not, does the courtesy light and horn work, the fuse and holder terminals are...

michael4 wrote: ↑Tue May 13, 2025 8:14 am Our son did this in our garage, turn the volume up!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daVDrGsaDME

That YouTube video is amazing. It should win some sort of award.
You don't get that on Britains Got Talent.
Thanks to your son, and you for sharing it.

Regards John

Thanks Les, if it’s a money spider, it’s not working.
The forum does appear to be back to normal after failing completely last night and this morning.
Thanks guys in the back ground, namely Simon.

Regards John

Is it just me, the forum has been slow for a couple of days, today it is very slow with server error messages.

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Thu May 01, 2025 6:17 pm You soldered to the diodes? Why?

Because that is how they were originally made.

I know what it is.
Bill is close, but no cigar.
Hopefully Berni has a photo of the genius inside.
Lets get some more guesses.

Regards John

Mine is orange. Could be because it is an Austin, or am I a rebel

Stephen, as an experiment, I’m wondering as a temporary measure, would any improvement be made by removing the engine steady. It is only there to stop clutch judder, which may not be an issue with harder engine mounts.

Regards John

geoberni wrote: ↑Sun Apr 06, 2025 9:07 pm
Could you not move the Drive Spindle around 180?
See page AA.22 in the Workshop manual.....

The 1098 engine distributor drive gear installation is, pdf page 86,87, section AAA.4.

That’s a low compression engine from a late Van or Pickup, I can't give an exact date, perhaps 1970.

Regards John.

I’d be cutting the old filter open, to have a look inside for the clue/blockage.
Please post a photo of what you find.

Regards John

It would be better to use a capacitor in series to stop the DC, It would still click or pop but with reduced current flow that would damage the speaker. Perhaps a 470uf at 16 or 25V would be suitable, make sure you connect it up with the correct polarity. You could still add a resistor if the click ...

Mr V Do not be disappointed - I do know what it does - it takes a few thousand miles off the life of the oil pump seal. The issue of leaking seals then becomes someone else's problem. Phil I sometimes read from the end of a post back. I saw oil pump seal mentioned and wondered what’s happened. Anyh...

It will most likely be tarnished fuse and fuse holder contacts and needs a clean as suggested by Stephen.
It is the one with White wires connected at one end and Green wires at the other, it protects everything on the ignition switched circuit apart from the coil and fuel pump.

Regards John

IT'S CHRISTMAS