Morris Minor Owners Club

svenedin wrote: ↑Sat May 24, 2025 3:45 pm It does not matter. The switch is just a break in the circuit. For instance, supply wire to switch, other side of switch to motor, then wire from other terminal of motor to earth.

Thank you

Hi all After dismantling my smiths heater from my 1957 and going to put it back together, I’ve realised that I marked up the positive wire to the switch, but the switch itself doesn’t appear to have any indication of positive and negative. Can anyone advise please? https://photos.app.goo.gl/7V3DrY8j...

The switch is he'd in place but s small grub screw on mine but from memory there is also a version with a push sud like the knobs on the dashboard. If it breaks, as the Bakelite can be brittle, there are replacements available usually found on a Landrover site. I hope this assists - Graphoref was a...

It’s from a 1957. The switch is variable speed, just one single round switch on the front of it

Next question :D My heater has been bench tested and yet another item that I can tick off as working. It’s had a little furry friend around it and needs a good general cleanup. I’ve looked on YouTube and cannot seem to find any restoration details on it. I can’t seem to figure out how the switch is ...

Thank you.

After leaving the rod to soak I managed to get it undone from the top.

I’ve given everything a clean and it’s all placed safely in a tub. I shall loosely put it back together in the morning, just in case the kit takes longer to arrive than my memory can serve me

I did post you an exploded view diagram, this one, on the Windtone Horn topic, where you first mentioned the fuel pump... https://board.mmoc.org.uk/download/file.php?id=27748 . Where I explained that (2) has to be unscrewed from (15). It's worth watching this Tony Hillyard Video about rebuilding th...

Here is the end of the diaphragm operating rod threaded in to the contact breaker rocker assembly. The alternative method is to strip down the top of the pump and unscrew the rocker assembly from the diaphragm rod BUT you need to be sure you will know how to put it all back together again. I did re...

Here I am again, but at least it proves I’m working hard to get Murial finished. Today I present to you a problem with the SU fuel pump from a 57 948 engine. After inspection it appeared that the part that shuttles up and down inside the main barrel was seized. I’ve managed to free it off, but have ...

Glad you're pleased. I fixed the horn on my car. I was really upset it stopped working. I used a cheapo modern horn for a while (because a working horn is a legal requirement) but it wasn't the same at all. Then I managed to fix the original horn which on the later 9H type means drilling out rivets...

svenedin wrote: ↑Fri Apr 25, 2025 9:17 am Oh yes. Working rather well. Great sound! Well done.

I'm so pleased!

Thank you all so much for your help. The horn is working.

Not sure I can post the video of it on here, but please do take a look if you're interested on Muriel's Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/1309792820116561

A closed contact is like putting a short on a battery, it pulls loads of power. it's similar to the fuel pump, the coil moves an armature and that makes and breaks the circuit. See this video, it explains it quite well. https://youtu.be/WEpS3D9WQb8?t=78 This is great, thank you. I came across this ...

Sorry all. I’m becoming a pain with this flipping horn.

I went to bench test today and there’s a really strong spark when I connect the horn to my battery.

The contact appears closed to me. Would it be anything to do with that? I don’t want to burn the coil out

Thank you all.

Sorry, I'm back again! I took apart my Lucas Windtone horn as there's no beep, beep! When I first bench tested it it made a very quiet noise. I've been advised to clean the points and to lubricate, but can anyone tell me exactly what part requires the lubrication please? I'm also told that I may nee...

I recently filled my old fuel tank with water to make sure there were no leaks before I began to restore it, but appears that leaving it in the sun didn’t let it dry properly, and now I have surface rust inside. Am I able to swill round some kind of rust inhibitor inside from say a plumbers merchant...

firedrake1942 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 13, 2025 7:31 am Gently with the usual paper but knocks or heavy pressure can cause damage. The domed back. from memory, is steel.

Thank you.

firedrake1942 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 12, 2025 5:31 pm Be careful when you attack the horn itself as it is made of a cast alloy which is prone to cracking and can be a bit powdery. The gubbins under the dome with the central bolt are fairly simple.

How is best to clean the cast alloy please?

Great! Many thanks