Morris Minor Owners Club

Thanks! Much appreciated. Good to know what I'm setting myself up for before making a nasty mess of the front drive!

As you say, it's probably about time I freshened the gearbox oil - I can't remember when it last got done so that's probably a sign I should do something about it...

-Tom

Hi all, While I'm yet to work out if I need to take the propshaft out of our Minor (I think one or both of the UJs need replacing as it rattles like a so-and-so at what feels like 2000rpm or so upwards) I thought I'd avail myself of your expertise and advice about how to go about doing so if I do. F...

Hi all, Apologies for the cross-posting, but Liz from the MMOC suggested I post here rather than in 'Wanted' if I want a reply so I'm doing as I'm told! Our Minor needs a fair bit of welding to get through its MOT and, although it's strictly speaking more than I can afford, I'm minded to do it to ke...

My boot has ceased to lock so I think I need to replace the barrel, or entire handle. I got as far as removing the catch-plate with the 4 screws, but how on earth do you get at the 2 small nuts holding the handle on? Is there a special tool? Thanks, Roger. I just fiddled around with my finger and a...

Great - thank you!

-Tom

Hi all, I've just replaced some of the wheel studs on my 2-door and thought, while I was there, that I'd swap out a dodgy-looking track rod end boot. I've successfully taken off the old locknut, broken the taper, removed and replaced the boot and tightened the whole thing up with a new locknut. I ha...

The telescopic wheel wrench is far too long for tightening - and can easily exceed the 38 ftlbf suggested. It should only be used NOT telescoped for tightening purposes. However I suggest the damage will probably have been done by a garage air gun - and I would at least change all 4 studs on that h...

bmcecosse wrote:...standard brakes will be fine too unless you are insane......???

Not as far as I'm aware, but then I'd be the last to know, wouldn't I...

Thanks - I'll have a look at that 940 head again and see what I can see.

-Tom

The hub should just pull off anyway - no tools required in my experience. But try it in place. The thing to consider is - that if one stud has failed presumably due to previous overtightening - the other are very likely to also have been overtightened - so you should seriously consider renewing all...

... it's an expensive business. Isn't everything? :D It's a 1098 and I've actually got a 940 head that I bought a while back (with a view to boosting the engine's performance a bit) so maybe that's the way to go. Is there an idiot-proof (or at least idiot-with-some-reading-proof) way of telling if ...

Hi all, Annoyingly, I've just sheared off a front wheel stud while replacing the wheel after a pre-MOT brake adjustment/trunnion greasing session. Don't know my own strength etc. etc. although actually I suspect the stud was at fault this time. My question is, can I knock the old stud out and pop a ...

Hi all, Just a final report on this - I fitted all the bits mentioned above and the car drove a fair bit better but still had a sneeze at idle which hadn't been as clearly discernable before all the new bits went in. So I checked/reset my valve gaps - #4 cylinder's exhaust seemed a bit tight which I...

I personally think it's a useful idea, my only concern is that this is an open forum for all to read. That's an interesting point. It would be self-defeating to go to all the bother of listing the ID number positions if publishing the location of information would negate the usefulness of recording...

Surely this info needs to be stored away from the car at home in a safe place not on the vehicle - say with the vehicle's documents. If it's stolen then the numbers go with it? I agree. I think the suggestion was probably meant to be that this be a belt-and-braces thing, where the bits of the vehic...

All separate numbers. Check the number on the chassis plate matches that stamped into the bodyshell. Also, if sending me engine nos, need the one fitted IN the vehicle - obviously the one stated on the V5 may be different. Worth concidering marking the chassis number on the reverse of interior trim...

Number locations are usually illustrated within the first few pages of Minor Workshop manuals & Service parts lists. Would someone please post this page on here? There's a copy of the 5th edition of the WM here ... [link removed] EDIT : OK - sorry about that. I took the page author's word for i...

pm chassis number please. Did you record the body/engine/gearbox & rear axle numbers? Very sorry to hear this - I wonder if this is the one I used to see about when I lived in Clapham? With regard to the above - is there a useful link on this site (or elsewhere) detailing where all the above nu...

Hello again, I've finally had another chance to look at this and I can report that replacing the air filter and tightening up the LT connections to the coil has made not a jot of difference. However, the more times I do the lap of shame 'round the block, the more I think I'm becoming attuned to the ...

Have you taken it for a spin with the new air filter fitted yet? On the ignition side, did you check the plug gaps when you fitted them? I gapped the plugs to 25 thou - by which I mean I closed them down 'til a feeler gauge would slide between them but there wasn't any gap to be seen if I held gaug...

I definitely zeroed the gauge between cylinders - the benefit, I suppose, of not having used the tester before was that I was somewhat methodical about the process. Not enough knowledge to be dangerous/cocky on this particular gadget - yet. Glad to hear it's not looking likely to be anything in the ...