Morris Minor Owners Club

Well spotted Katy, it never crossed my mind that they could have marked the piston with a metric unit
Jim

While in the middle of my 2 door restoration, I bought a 1275 midget engine to fit in place of my 1098. The internals look quite good, big ends have been ground to -.010" and the bores show almost no wear however, the pistons are clearly marked 0.75 suggesting 75 thou rebore. When I measure the...

I am struggling a bit to get my offside sill and boxing plate in the correct place on my 2 door.
Does anyone happen to know the width across the boxing plate flanges nearside to offside at the hinge end of the door opening

Jim

Kevin My panels are from Bull Motif and seems to be just like yours with the flange at about 30 degrees. Looking at the one I cut off and the other side post it looks as if the angle on mine should be a few degrees which means the new inner wing comes off the body in the door gap at 90 deg, the flan...

Having done most of the passenger side I have now moved on to the drivers side which is really rusty. Decided to replace both the flitch and the A post. The new A post comes with the cover attached but when I clamp it to the flitch the angle is way out and the cover panel is about 25 mm away from th...

I will try that as I patch up this area, the bump stop came off much easier than I thought, new patch ready for the welding to start then gas ran out.

Thanks for the short but prompt reply!! I will remove it today, one day I will have the confidence to just cut bits off without asking.

Jim

I have cut the plate away and although it was quite solid it had been put over the top of the remains of the rusty inner wing so I am glad i removed it. The metal behind the bump stop is holed and rusty and proving difficult to repair, since I now have access to the area inside the box section where...

you can see to the left of the bump stop I cut out a section because it had holes, there is a lot of surface rust inside so maybe taking the plated bit away is a good idea

Thanks for the advice, I think I will cut it away and see whats underneath, then get the heavy plate for strength

Jim

Quite a lot of cars being restored have this "repair" and a section is available, is it just a repair panel for a rusty wing or is it meant to re-inforce this area.

this time with photo[frame][/frame]

I am gradually working my way round the rust on my 2 door and have reached the rear inner wing. The flange is of course really rusty and I have a new rear half to fit. Some one previously has welded on the plate repair that seems to be a quite common repair. The question is since I am in no hurry an...

The floor and all the inner panels need replacing as they are all patches so bit by bit they have to go. The A post is first on the list and I have tacked 2" angle across each door gap about 4" above the top of the boxing panel and then tacked another piece of angle across the car to the o...

Hi John, you can sound like a broken record all you want, I have done many bikes but this is my first car so will listen to all offers of advice. Measuring from bits underneath the car to what is left of the RH sill and comparing it to where I have the LH one clamped in place would suggest it is abo...

I will get these parts ordered and see how it goes
thanks
Jim

some more photos

http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t512/jimyboyle/

Thanks for the photo John, yours looks like mine, touches at the front and back with a wide gap in the middle, sort of makes the horizontal flange at the bottom of the boxing plate redundant as there is nothing to attach it to. This horizontal flange make you think it has to be welded to the outer s...

Thanks John,
assuming it is in the correct position do I need to then weld a plate across the top to close the gap and seal it from water ingress?

Jim

Not having much success uploading a photo so here is a link

http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t512/jimyboyle/