Morris Minor Owners Club

Many people on here will advise you that it's easier to remove the engine. They may well be right, but I decided to do mine by removing the gearbox, mainly because I didn't want to disturb the front panel or risk damaging the wings. I knew I could remove the gearbox cross member fairly easily as I'd...

Without seeing it, it's difficult to know by how much your engine has lowered, but you might need to loosen the front engine mounts and also, of course, disconnect the exhaust and the top radiator hose, all can make a difference. It is also usual to need to first move the gearbox backwards by just ...

While accessing my clutch yesterday I struggled to drop the gearbox below the steering rack. I haven't done this operation before, but from online videos I think the engine usually drops slightly lower. I'd removed the steady bar and I don't have a heater valve in the usual position, but movement wa...

Thanks Phil. Just looked back at my post on this subject last year - at least it's not oil contamination as I feared then! I will be paying particular attention to the pedal clearance when I get it sorted.

Hi, after a long time away I've finally got round to looking at my clutch problems. I "finished" my twelve year restoration two years ago, had a few satisfactory local runs but experienced total clutch failure on the first proper outing (with my wife) and embarrassingly had to be recovered...

I'd got the rear scroll and gearbox shaft down as potential culprits, but a cracked engine plate is an interesting addition to the list. I'll report back in a few weeks when I get the opportunity to get the engine out.

Thanks, useful advice. I rebuilt the gearbox with parts from Heathrow Transmissions.

Yes, lots of slip, no other odd noises. I've a major garage clearing operation before I can look at the propshaft, but the car will go forward and reverse, although not up my steep drive, so I think I can rule out half shaft or diff issues. It was working ok in all gears the day it failed, but got s...

Thanks Phil. When the problem occurred I found that the free play was almost non existent, and I'm fairly sure I set it correctly on assembly. Unfortunately resetting the free play didn't cure the problem. Could this suggest that the plate has somehow disintegrated? I will do as you suggest and rech...

My Adderley Park Traveller was only registered in April 1971, but is MAW5D 1286***F, so 1969 according to this list. I think it's more likely to be late 1970, in line with Ray Newell's Traveller book.

Hi, haven't been on here for quite a long time. I finally "finished" my 10 yr+ Traveller restoration last summer, but although it performed very well on a few test runs the clutch failed on the first trip out with my wife. The ignominy of arriving home on a breakdown truck :oops: Could hav...

I was advised four or five years ago by a staff member at Minispares that the "Cooper S" rockers linked to earlier were of dubious quality and that he personally felt they should not be selling them. They may have addressed the quality problem since then, but the advert looks the same.

No, it wasn't obvious. As I said, I jacked each wheel and they all rotated freely. At that stage I still thought it was the engine losing power, but was checking for binding brakes as a possibility.

I very much doubt that this is the answer here, but last year I experienced very similar symptoms towards the end of my rebuild. I could get a decent tickover, could back it out of the drive, but as soon as I turned it to go up the steep cul-de-sac it died, or with enough welly it moved very slowly ...

Thanks, that sounds like a possible way forward.

Some people seem to be naturally clean and tidy, some just seem to make a mess whatever they do. Guess which type I am...

Thanks all!

Probably a daft question, but is it humanly possible to get to the gearbox filler/level plug from below, even using a lift if necessary, rather than lifting the carpets? My reason for asking this is that I have just fitted a beautiful but totally impractical interior in biscuit, including the carpet...

Great detective work! The ends of the channels do appear to be the weakest link in the frame design, and clear drain holes are critical. I drilled extra drain holes closer to the B post in both inner and outer channels.

All good advice. I'd add removing the scuttle panel trim to reveal the kidney panel. Drill a couple of holes into the raised parts each side of the recess to get your choice of preservative into the areas between the inner wing, flitch panel and hinge pillar. This is possibly the worst area for rust...

I've just replaced my ineffective original plastic bodied magnetic catch with this metal bodied one from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/carlisle-brass-magnetic-catch-nickel-plated-15-x-14mm/2077P?kpid=2077P&ds_kid=92700058168039572&ds_rl=1244072&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn-jIuaqf-wIVzMztCh1...