Morris Minor Owners Club

Excellent advice & tips chaps. Thank you to all.
If I have any trouble, I'll know where to come ;-)

cheers,
[dave]

bmcecosse wrote:NO - you DO NOT EVER hammer on top of the tre !!!!!!!!!

Well I thought that couldn't be right...see I told you I'd sound like a numpty

So how do you refit the TRE?

Noproblem :D Yeah, you just hammer the other sort in where the top of that one is. Now, what I want to know is how the, um, dickens one does the things up again. It seems wrong to rely on hammering the taper in until it holds, and it doesn't always work, either :( Ah...I never though about that...d...

Ahhh, I get the idea. Thank you very much for taking the trouble with the photo...a picture tells...etc

I guess with the simple fork type hammering in the wedge drives the TRE up while the fork slides down the sides of the taper? I can see how that would chew up the rubber.

thanks,
[dave]

Neither...I was just window shopping around the net for one. Which is best?

I assume once the nylok nut is undone the TRE should just pull out of the steering arm. usually not! It should be tightly locked in a taper on the steering arm. A ball joint splitter should do the trick and are a useful investment as they should last a lifetime. OK, I'm gonna show myself up now as ...

Bull motif used to sell new top cover seals for TRE (hardly a 'boot' ?) - so if the joint is ok - just pop one on - but slabber some grease in first. OK, ta. Just wanted to check I didn't have to dismatle the TRE to fit it. I assume once the nylok nut is undone the TRE should just pull out of the s...

bigginger wrote:If ypu mean the concertina boot at the end of the rack and you've removed the tre, just fit one to be safe.

The rubber on the TRE itself...I'm already replacing the steering rack gaiter as that is also split

While struggling with a stuck lock nut on the steering rack, I noticed the rubber boot on the TRE is on its last legs. How easy is it to replace the rubber? Or is it simpler to replace the whole TRE? They aren't very expensive on ESM and my TREs don't have the grease nipple on so it's tempting just ...

There should be a total of 10 nipples that need grease and one that needs oil. One on each handbrake cable, Two on the propshaft (one on each joint) One on each track rod end ball joint. One at the top trunnion and one at the bottom trunnion on each side. On the subject of missing nipples...my trac...

Can't say I can help much with your missing nipple - although in another thread someone suggested squirting oil in via one of the steering rack gaitors as an alternate method.

You'd need to release one end of a gaitEr & ease the oil cab spout in to lube it - then tighten the gaitEr again.

Hello Dave, another thing that is worth doing is to wire brush the threads clean and then apply Plus Gas to the threads and leave for a while. A good fitting quality spanner is essential, and don't be afraid to hit it, preferably with a copper hammer. Alec PS, not too many scientific people respond...

Matt wrote:Some are whitworth too ;)

So are Whitworth different sizes to the typical imperial jobbies (AF?) in my spanner set?

Ah good not just me then.

I've got the usual mix of imperial & metric spanner from sets - just the basic sort of thing - 11/16", 7/8", 1/2", etc - I wondered if BMC used sizes measured in 1/32" - that would explain why none of my imerial ones fit.

Ok, is it just me or does anyone else have seized nuts! No double-ententres intended! Just trying to replace a steering rack gaiter...looked like a straightforward job but nooo....the locknut onto the trackrod end is either seized or I'm being a dimwit. :( Is this normal? (I mean it being seized, no...

wibble_puppy wrote:sansom, two words: gaffer tape

Now you're talking my language...

Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll save it & do the job properly later.

In the meantime, the moggy has failed the MOT!! Steering rack gaiter is split...better do that first!

cheers,
[dave]

I assumed they wouldn't be too bothered...but I am :-) I've read how the brake cylinder can corrode up if left unprotected so I'd like to replace it...I guess that'll mean bleeding the system...hmm, sounds like a lot of work. how about cutting a slit in the boot and then cementing it up again after ...

How do folks, Whilst checking the brakes prior to the MOT the other day, I noticed one of the boots on the rear brakes has split. Question is, how do replace it? The handbrake looks like it won't be a problem but how do you get it over the brake lines? Do I have to disconnect the lines? Words of wis...

Hmm. If I leave it to the pump cutoff on my '65 convertible, I get a cupful of petrol spat all over the paintwork, so I try to guess when to stop instead. Is the filler pipe different to a modern car (apart from the anti-tamper device)? It seems quite a shallow angle to the tank from the cap. [dave]