Morris Minor Owners Club

I just used some on my new modern car (moggie is undergoing restoration). Found it pretty simple and easy to apply, gets a nice mist and it's good and runny. Smells of sheep for a week afterwards! Been on there all winter and it seems fine but I haven't had a proper look and what can you really say ...

I've been impressed with the EM121 Epoxy by Rustbusters. It's repackaged Jotun Smartpack, which was designed for marine applications. I've been using it for internal areas while welding panels up, and I've noticed it's really tough compared to conventional paints I've used (sanding back areas so I c...

The scaffolding pole through the centre rotisserie has been working well for me doing sill and floor edge repairs. Goes through the battery hole, which is usually pretty rust free. Bolted a bit of old bed frame along the rear seat opening to support the back and two A frames out of some structural t...

I'm repairing the sills on my 4 door. The edge of the floor (before it turned into the lower sill) seems in reasonable condition. The lower sill had a bit of a bodge repair, with a new panel welded over an old one, but cutting right back to the edge of the floor got rid of both panels, and I've got ...

The other side actually looks really good! Bit of surface rust around the hinge plate thingies, but there's loads of good metal, except just a little bit near the base. https://i.imgur.com/To35sJF.jpg When replacing a panel like this that was spot welded, is it best to plug weld rather than seam wel...

They look fine from the outside, but the bottom of them has rusted through in a bunch of places, and I'm pretty sure has some awful patch sandwiches in places along the bottom. https://i.imgur.com/khliLe7.jpg I'm hoping the edge of the floor is fine, so it'll just be the bottom of the sills I can re...

That sounds like a good plan, remove the front half of the door pillar, repair the front half of the pillar, and inner wing area (can get an idea of how bad it is behind too, suspect it'll be similar), then move onto the other side (hopefully repairing "around" the hinge bolt holes themsel...

I would carry out a localised repair, cutting out the rusted area and welding new metal in. If you attempt to fit the new panel you have highlighted you will have a very big job on your hands as you'll have to remove the door and cut away the hinge pillar as that repair panel goes behind it. You re...

I have a set of mag wheels but kept the originals. I like slot-mags because they are more of a 'period' modification. I like that look. It's not a car I have as an investment, it's a car I have because I like it!

Finally set up my welder and I'm getting some awful, but hopefully improving, weld on thin sheet to practice. Just ordering some repair panels. The front inner wing has some rust-holes at the rear bottom. I'm wondering if it'll be easier replacing the whole rear panel with this repair panel: https:/...

One other thing, I was thinking of rolling the car, would it be easier to weld this with the car on its side or not? I.e. is most the welding from underneath?

have you got a photo of the underside of the sill,looks like it may have been plated over ,its a common bodge strip of steel welded to the floor pan and to the flange on the outer undersill. looks like a length of welding wire poking up through it,(best way to describe the sections as inner and out...

I would always brace before rolling, even if you leave the doors in, but vital if you have taken them out. both across the car and in the door frames. Any weakness in the structure - and you cannot see everything - you run the risk of twisting Great, will definitely do it. Glad you pointed it out, ...

The boxing panels look to be in amazing condition and I certainly wouldn't consider replacing them. I know! I was really surprised how good they are compared to the floor of the sill. I think the car had been stored for a long time, so maybe there was some sitting water inside that didn't get jostl...

I've been meaning to respray my car for a few years now, and I've finally begun stripping it to paint, or at least prepare for painting. Slowly been gathering an air compressor, spray gun, winch (for removing the engine) and I'm about ready to go. I just ground off the sill plate bolts and while at ...

My new drums squeal badly as well (From ESM though, but probably the same manufacture).

Yes, vane. It's the large cast type impeller, new a few hundred miles ago. Thermostat had a single 1/8" hole.

One of the veins has a hole in it. I thought the sandwich plate was to keep circulation around the cylinder head?

Okay, my 1275 head doesn't have any bypass. After a bunch of overheating problems, the pump is all messed up and needs replacing. Seems the head (from a metro) originally had a sandwich plate that bypassed the thermostat. I know this is a touch topic, reading through the historic threads, but I have...

1000rpm is crazy! Timing gears sound like a great idea, but I dread to think the price. New baby on the way is forcing my budget low... Checked, there is no locking nut at all. I'll order one. Does anyone know the size of the bolts I need to bolt the tensioner plate to the front plate? Closer inspec...