Morris Minor Owners Club

Does the car see any use in the rain at all? Is it maybe worth a thorough dampness check around the inside? I have a mini which used to mist up a lot due to general dampness (as opposed to actually being wet) inside. That combined with a human breathing out plenty of water vapour and the car windows...

Would Rivnuts work for you?

I don’t have the equipment for rivnuts so It’ll be easier for me to just tack weld new nuts on.

I’ll post when it’s done. (Could be sometime given work and children!)

I’ve just amended the thread title to include ‘headlight’ for ease of searching and future reference.

And I thought this was going to be simple question with a quick answer! Seeing as 2/3rds of the nuts need replacing anyway I thought I‘d use the correct factory threads. I’m personally after a working car that I’m not afraid to use rather than anything period correct My 1000 was my only car for quit...

Did the original (genuine) part have captive threads fitted to fix the headlight bowl?

That would be interesting to know wouldn’t it?

I think I’ll go 2BA as anything metric wouldn’t feel right!

Many thanks folks. I calculated 32tpi or thereabouts so, yes, 2BA or 3/16" (number 10?) UNF is possible. My vernier says the major diameter is closer to 2BA but it's quite a rusty thread so accuracy isn't going to be great. At some point I'll try a nut on the thread that's left and see what thr...

Maybe these photos will help clarify. As you may be able to see amongst the underseal and surface corrosion on the rear of the wing there are captive nuts in a cage for the front light fitment. Well, they’re no longer captive but spinning around! I assumed these nuts and cages were an original fitti...

Many thanks for the replies. Just to clarify it is the lights to wing thread which I was querying. I’m not keen on welding a new nut on of the wrong thread and then needing to lop ‘em off when I discover I can’t fit a light in whatever I’ve welded on. 2ba sounds correct: my vernier measures it at 0....

Hello everybody, does anyone know what thread the captive nuts on the front wing are which hold the front lights on? I've a wing which is in reasonable condition other than the captive nuts which are no longer captive and have the threaded section of the light fitting screws still in them! I'm happy...

Many thanks folks, the help is greatly appreciated.

I've posted this on the other forum - it seems that there are three differing styles of MK3 Escort caliper. Always the way isn't it?...

Hello. I have a JLH disc conversion on my car. It's been on since I bought the car so I'm not sure what exact model the calipers are. To my eyes they look like Mk3 Escort calipers but there are no FoMoCo markings, would anybody be able to confirm this please? The retaining spring is missing from the...

I think it's genius and opens up an endless array of engine bay decorating opportunities.

Plus, aren't ceramics the buzz new materials for fancy bearings and other aerospace applications?

Remember to grout between the tiles for a perfect finish Ondergard. You wouldn't want anyone thinking you had bodged the job at all.

Yay. Both sides are moving. Thanks folks. Everyday's a school here isn't it? some lubricant on the splines you can tap the arm forwards too as it will help spread the lube and clean more muck off the splines. That seemed to be the key. Getting some lube in there and then getting some movement. I the...

There is now some play between the rear suspension arm and the spline when I wobble it with my hand, it just isn't moving rearwards on the spline. When I move the rear arm it also moves the spigot bush along with it, ie. there is no relative movement between the arm and bush suggesting that that is ...

Thanks folks, I'll give the offending spline and rear arm a good overnight drink of WD40. In past the tie-bar ???? Yes, that's kind of how I've been attempting it, tapping the rear arm square - as per aupickup's post, with a long screwdriver with the blade end on the rear arm as close to the torsion...

OK, That sounds good. I've been using a long screwdriver to get in past the tie bar etc and giving it a fairly heavy tap with a 16oz hammer - distributed around the wishbone, not just a single place.

How easily should the rear wishbone move along the torsion bar spline? Mine isn't moving with wd40 and gentle persuasion. I don't want to go overboard with the hammer blows but I just can't get the wishbone to shift to get at the eyebolt. Still, having 'fun'. Or should that be frustration? Time for ...

I went ahead and disassembled the lower suspension front and removed the kingpin as per the book but without the top link coming within 1/4" of the bump stop. All seemed fine. I'm now struggling to remove the top trunnion/damper arm bolt from the damper arm. Despite plenty of hammer action all ...

First problem is the lower-wishbone is coming into contact with the chassis so raising it is proving difficult. Argh.

Same issue as this post below...

http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... 4&p=396179

Well, a big box with kingpins, trunnions and eye bolt bushes arrived from BullMastiff spares this morning. These aren't assembled so will provide plenty of opportunity to make sure they are packed with grease. I've decided to renew the front wheel bearings while I'm injuring myself with the spanners...