Morris Minor Owners Club

Have just done this on mine.
Take the steering wheel and cowling off and gradually squirt oil in there over a few days and eventually the oil will penetrate the upper pad and get down to the lower pad.
It works

Hope you don't mind me bumping this thread after so long but just wanted to conclude the story. All the chassis work and suspension rebuild now complete. Also completely rebuilt the brakes and clutch system. Car passed its MOT last month with no advisories. Really happy with the results. Thanks for ...

I've ordered the repair kit from a local servo specialist.
Once I'd stripped it down it appeared to be no more complicated that a brake master cylinder, ( with a relief valve).
I'll report back on results when reassembled.

Thanks for the replies. The reason I was asking was because I am thinking about upgrading my brakes to the disc setup and because the hoses that come with the kit are for a Minor, ( mine is a Riley 1.5), I just wanted to see if I had to reflare brake pipes with a non-UNF female unions. The Riley is ...

Is that because you have Wolseley or Riley front drum set up?

Hi Taupe

Thanks for the info.

Just to make sure I've got that straight: Specifically the front flexi hose to copper pipe union is UNF?

Thanks

Ok they are coming apart today.
As a slight aside, what size brake unions does the Minor use?

Fair comment. They did seem a bit slow retracting. I'm renewing all the cylinders as part of the overhall so I'll see if the problem remains.
Cheers

My car has a aftermarket Lockheed servo that the previous owner fitted. Following on from a mix up over DOT 4 and DOT 5, I've had to take the hydraulics apart and am currently replacing seals and full cylinders where required. The brakes were pretty poor before hand and I'm using the opportunity to ...

I've had drums that "touch" before but these are either so tight you can hardly turn them at one position of the wheel and free turning at other positions.

I'm in the process of overhauling my braking system. I've noticed that virtually all the wheels have stiff spots where the brakes appear to bind as you hand turn the wheel. I've tried using the adjusters with little success. I thought it would be a good idea to get the drums checked for roundness an...

Pin removed. New ones ordered.

Thanks guys.

Thanks

I got the nut off last night.
Does the pin come out of the cup easily?

Just looking at some MM commercial sites and it looks like the pin is available separately so I'm assuming its designed to be swapped over?

Ok guys, I was wrong. I've stripped the front thread on the fulcrum pin, (damn) Its my own stupid fault as I was using it to try to pull the rear arm forward. I realise the pin is an interference fit into the lower arm and the manual states that the pin shouldn't be removed unless absolutely necessa...

Cheers John.

That may have been the problem in the first place. I'll strip down.

It looks as if the whole pin is turning. I was tightening up against some resistance as the front arm was compressing the front polybush. Then the resistance was suddenly lost. There is still some resistance which indicates that the pin is turning against something I suppose I'll have to strip the w...

Hello I dismantled the N/S suspension on Sunday to fit the polybushes to match up with the ones done months ago on the O/S of the car. Everything going fine and just had to attach the front lower arm and tie bar. I should have been suspicious that all was going along too easily.......... On tighteni...

I was looking to top up my dampers and came across this thread. I have 0/30 oil for my Honda. I'm assuming the 30 is the SAE rating so will this be ok to use? Is there a facility to drain the old oil in the damper before topping up but without removing the damper from the car? I'm assuming mixing th...

That leg looks familiar........
And I have the thick washers where yours are.

Reading this thread, if mine goes in a straight line following my novice chassis leg replacement it will be a miracle.