Morris Minor Owners Club

I'd confirm that I've had similar problems with the "improved" kevlar hoses. Apart from perishing, the top hose was too short and the bottom one did not line up with the heater return. Conversely the old stock standard ones have always been perfect and generally last fifteen years !!! So m...

I had a 1961 2-door with paperwork that listed deluxe as heater, ashtrays, and leather seats.

For saloons you can get mild steel single piece systems or stainless two piece. The stainless are MUCH easier to fit - less fiddling, and last much much longer - even with a lifetime guarantee. You'll probably need the fittings and manifold clamp too. Even if you can slvage the old ones, it's much e...

There should be more than 1mm overlap. Could also be the brass coloured sliding barrel is worn. If the gap between door and B-post is large, you could shim the hinges to move the door back and get a better overlap.

It sounds like you need a country vet to help you - they're used to having their arms in up to the shoulder

Many suppliers quote .328 inch drill bit which is a sort of mess between metric and imperial. What you really need is a 21/64 inch bit. The theory of knocking out the old pin sounds fine. I've managed it once, but on every other hinge (around 8 or 9) I've had to drill out the entire old pin. It's es...

Thanks all for thoughts so far. The wheelchair is a push one, not electric. At the moment the Renault has a fairly steep ramp with an electric winch for those who need it, but we just push hard. The chair remains occupied, and is clamped to the floor. Certainly I've seen conversions on other vehicle...

My Mother-in-Law has MS and is confined to a wheelchair :( . She can't drive, but the family has a specially adapted vehicle that takes the wheelchair in the back. Unfortunately it's a Renault Kangoo, and this weekend I had to abondon work on my Traveller when the Renault sprang a high pressure petr...

Various "systems" available, such as the Sikkens. Sikkens from most builders merchants. Burgess Wood Sealer & Top Coat is simple to use, can be applied to wet (yes wet) wood and will go clear when it dries. Very quick to apply and dry, but will NOT withstand petrol, so be careful when ...

The other obvious place to look is in another Minor ! Ask any fellow owners if you can look under their bonnets, at least you'll then get the general layout right. Also photos in the various books (Ray Newell's for example!) will give a guide. As others say, once you start it's all sort of falls int...

Vacuum guage needs a separate take-off from the manifold. The guage should come with a threaded adapter. Remove the manifold, drill correct sized hole (in inlet, NOT exhaust!) and tap to suit the adapter.

An angled open-ended spanner, either professionally made or heated and hammered to suit. Also the ever faithfuly molegrips will grip the round part of the switch

3 travellers are mine, one saloon is the wife's (but she nearly always nicks one of mine). Moral is marry the right woman and don't contemplate divorce, or to paraphrase that old sone, "love me, love my car"

We've certainly done the standard fuel pump to death, but I spotted the word "electronic" in the question. Generally electronic bits seem to be rather sensitive to polarity. I've seen these units advertsied, but never fitted one. Does anyone have any experience of the electronic pumps?

I found the same problem with both the Watling and the earlier Witter bar. I found it best to simply put the plate on the door - see inside front cover of curent Minor Matters.

Drain plug underneath tank. Unscrews with a spanner. If the tank is really old and the metals has worn thin, then then the mounting boss might rip out instrad of the plug unscrewing. Obviously take great care to drain petrol safely. Even when empty, the vapours in the tank will inger and could still...

It's easy but fiddly (if that makes sense). You might not want to bother though..... First remove the door lock. Ah ha! You'll find that that means removing the trim panel. That means removing the door pull, interior handle, and window winder. Also, to get the lock out, you need to remove the window...

Strangely enough I had one fail last year. First time in 25 years. Clean break of the "cage" section into two halves. Oddly, it was a new adjuster rather than the original. I'd made the switch on the basis that new would not be at all worn. Silly really.

I was looking at the vertical gap when making first comment. Others are of course correct about cover plate underneath - you should not be able to see the road! With all respect to Jonathon; I'd side with chickenjon and go for welding; although as jonathon, each to his own.

If there's something wrong then I'm worried, all three of mine look like that! Onve you've got the ally panel on then the gap won't be so obvious. On the inside it's covered by the trim panel. BUT.... the timber arch should sit flush against the metal of the inner wheel arch. Not too sure from your ...